Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

take your fenders off, then take an s15 fenders off... then look at the chassis underneath and see if they look even remotely the same... you'll very swiftly come to the realisation that... NO! OF COURSE NOT! *does option dvd style smack across the head... oo there's a smiley for that :slap:*

the silvia and the 180sx are the same chassis, hence why onvias n sileighty's are common as chips. Bomex made a strawberry face adapter kit, so now many people around the world can change the 180's front into an s15.

If you're a pro welder and a keen panelbeater, then go nuts, if not, stop yourself before you squander your money away.

From the rear photo is has a huge spoiler that extends to the furthest extents of the body. from the front photo, the spoiler can hardly be seen and is definately smaller

someone got something really wrong with the perspective on that pic.. Mini Me is right..

front and rear views are not correct

are you guys sure that is the real deal?

it could be an excellent photoshop.. but.. then again.. who knows.. maybe its 2 different cars.. because the side view has a carbon or black bonnet on it..

maybe the 300zx front is really fat compared to the 32 rear

i know ur saying that as a joke..

but its still not possible.. look at the rear guards, the spoiler sticks well out further than them, and from the rear, you can see that the front guards are not "fatter" than the rears ALSO the rear window...

but when you look at the front its shrunk..

WTF

Ooooh, sounds like an X-file...

Look you ninkumpoops:D, obviously it's yet another *3-D object presented in a 2-D medium*... hence the magical wing thats long-when-viewed-from-the-back, short-when-viewed-from-the-front.

just had another look at the pic. even if the perspective thing did make the spoiler look so much smaller, then why can't the rear tyres be seen underneath the car on the front view. They are almost the same viewing distance behind the viewing point as the spoiler, and are not set as far apart, yet they line up directly behind the front tyres.............

here's another look zr32.jpg

Whos to say they haven't haphazardly cut around the image of the car to add it to the magazine page, and in the process cut off the protruding parts of the rear wing (in the front on pic) and then realized their mistake, then haphazardly "added" the protruding parts again, not taking into account the "3D object on 2D medium" conundrum, thereby creating this bollocks conversation...

...I mean, look at the wing on the drivers side in the front on view,(it has an end-plate) and then look at the pssenger side (it doesn't have an end-plate) OMG! :looney:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...