Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm removing my coilovers to install the factory suspension in my Stag.

Installing and removing the coilovers is a sinch. However when attempting to put the originals back in the front, there is to much load on the factory springs to install them and get the bottom eyelet slotted on.

I have tried spring compressors but they just get in way or there is to little room to do anything.

Any tips?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296410-reinstalling-orginal-suspension/
Share on other sites

Are both front wheels off the ground?

You should be able to lever the LCA down, using something like an axe or sledge hammer handle. Firstly, mount the top and hold in place so you have hands free for the lower mount.

it's not easy, as mentioned u need someone to stand on the hub (which u obviously have already done, next step is levering it on, i usually use a crow bar on the sway bar or whatever is around there, but it will slip off the crow bar quite easily, so have a look at what uve got lying around.

besides levering it on, i have also used a jack, just put a jack under and jacked it right on the lower mount (usually with a piece of wood in between the mount and the jack) right next to the bolt, until it compressed enough, then just slid it over onto the bolt

I did mine on the Ceffy for the first time with myself and my boss trying to pull the hub down and push it in at the bottom.. Til' I noticed the sway bar, undid that and the whole thing dropped, took 400x less amount of time for me to do it the second time around lol..

I love shorter suspension, makes the job that much easier!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...