Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Swapped manual gearbox from R32 RB20DET into ECR33. 1-5 gears work fine. But reverse gear can't be "fixed", it jumps back into neutral.

To move backward, I must engage reverse gear and fix it by left hand. What can happend with the gearbox?

ps. Sorry for my English, this is not my native language. ;)

Edited by 545_TURBO
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296450-reverse-gear-problem/
Share on other sites

Your English is fine ;)

Sounds like reverse synchro hub, could be selector too...I'm guessing your R32 box is second hand? Lucky dip with second hand boxes...you'll need to pull apart the thing to work it out I think.

Question, why did you swap the R32 box into the R33? Unless your R33 was originally N/A, the R33 turbo box is much much stronger and you'd be crazy to swap it for anything else in the Skyline range.

My ECR33 is daily driver and I don't planning any overboosting. And I think atmo gearbox will handle stock power levels.

But the problem is with the reverse gear. Don't know what should I do for now. :D

ps. Yep, the gearbox is from parted out R32.

It has probably broken the little spring that locks the selector into reverse.

2 choices - major expense to remove the gearbox to replace the broken spring. Or just put up with the inconvenience of having to hold it in reverse.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Certainly. It is probably broken under the wire style clamp. At least that one is easier to get at than the front one.   Sounds like it isn't a major leak, I'd start with backing off the the water feed and return banjos into the turbos half a turn then tightening properly. Hardlines can still crack over time, either in the tube (particularly when turbos are changed if the banjo is siezed in the the tube) or at the brazed joins between the lines and the banjo fittings. A coolant system pressure test will reveal all. BTW you'd be able to get a sump without exchange, it will just cost more as they will have to source another stock one for the next customer. If you want to address the sump a much better option is something like this https://www.hioctanedirect.com/hi-octane-racing-sump-extension-nissan-rb26 that you weld in locally (and add the oil return fittings at the same time)
    • Pretty sure you are thinking of the throwout bearing there (which you should change when you change your clutch), when they are worn they will get quieter if you put your foot on the clutch. An input shaft bearing is turning/noisy at all times.
    • I’ll have more of a look into Recaros over the weekend. It’s taken me 2 days to figure out which Bride seats suit my application haha.
    • I am aware of their presence, but the product page looked like that conversion will eliminate the AWD capability. Fact remains it's kind of a hassle to send my oil sump halfway around the world and buying an extra one is expensive and unnecessary. Before I go hat route I'd explore more local options.    Would you recommend I just pull the engine and renew as many things as possible since I'm already having problems with some leaks? Would have to get an engine crane first though.
    • Are there any indicators that the vehicle is in limp mode?  Any dash light, or something.  Or is it just lack of acceleration?
×
×
  • Create New...