Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

just a newbie about to purchase my first skyline

1993 hr32 gtst 105xxx kms

had its 100,000 k service done, timing belt changed.

Following Mods;

Nismo GT-R Bodykit

East-Bear Bonnet

Koyo Radiator

GReddy Spec LS Front Mount Intercooler

Trust Airinx Pod Filter

GReddy Oil Catch Can

Apexi "Pencil Type" Turbo Timer

Swoosh Boost & Oil Temp Gauges - Dual Gauge Holder

RS-R* Piping from Dump to Cat

Trust MX Exhaust Cat Back

KYB Short Stroke Struts - King Springs

Endless Carbon Brake Pads

Comes with Original Suspension, Original Bonnet & Original Intercooler

are these quality mods?

is 11k around the mark for a very clean looking 32 gtst

any help would be appreciated :D

post-68327-1258377561_thumb.jpg

post-68327-1258377576_thumb.jpg

Edited by shibby69
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296542-about-to-purchase-93-hr32-gtst/
Share on other sites

hi all,

just a newbie about to purchase my first skyline

1993 hr32 gtst 105xxx kms

had its 100,000 k service done, timing belt changed.

Following Mods;

Nismo GT-R Bodykit

East-Bear Bonnet

Koyo Radiator

GReddy Spec LS Front Mount Intercooler

Trust Airinx Pod Filter

GReddy Oil Catch Can

Apexi "Pencil Type" Turbo Timer

Swoosh Boost & Oil Temp Gauges - Dual Gauge Holder

RS-R* Piping from Dump to Cat

Trust MX Exhaust Cat Back

KYB Short Stroke Struts - King Springs

Endless Carbon Brake Pads

Comes with Original Suspension, Original Bonnet & Original Intercooler

are these quality mods?

is 11k around the mark for a very clean looking 32 gtst

any help would be appreciated ;)

A nice list of upgrades it's got there.

The main thing is, what is the condition of the engine, turbo, mechanics and electrics..?

Get it checked out and test drive it. By driving the car you will be able to tell if there is any uncertainties of the car.

Turbo Timers are there so you can let your car sit and idle, saving you from waiting a few minutes.

+ you can set the alarm/lock up and the car will only switch off when the count down is finished.

Cool-down period required to prevent premature turbo wear and failure.

After a period of driving when a turbocharger has been working hard, it is important to let the engine run at idle speed for a period of time, allowing the compressor assembly to cool from the lower gas temperatures in both the exhaust and intake tracts.

At the same time the lubricating oil from the engine is able to circulate properly so the turbine won't burn the lubricating oil that would otherwise be trapped within the charger with the turbine rotating at high speed.

- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbo_timer

thanks mate,

yeh i thought it drove really well on the test drive, its booked into jap motor sport in adelaide so the mechanic can do a full check and compression test. fingers crossed, could have it by the weekend.

what sort of power would it make with these mods? and what mods should i be looking at next?

im thinking fuel pump and injectors. a new turbo would probably be out of my price range

thanks mate,

yeh i thought it drove really well on the test drive, its booked into jap motor sport in adelaide so the mechanic can do a full check and compression test. fingers crossed, could have it by the weekend.

what sort of power would it make with these mods? and what mods should i be looking at next?

im thinking fuel pump and injectors. a new turbo would probably be out of my price range

Good! :wave:

Getting you mechanic to do a full inspection on the car will give you a peace of mind and let you know if it's good of not.

You do have some quality upgrades there, here is a quick run down of what they do...

Nismo GT-R Bodykit, the R32 GTR front bar has air vents to allow air flow to the FMIC and give the car decent look.

East-Bear Bonnet, has a vent to allow the heat out of the engine bay.

Koyo Radiator will keep your water temps at a lower / steadier temp so the car does not get too hot at the same time keep the lower temp more stable for longer spirited / track runs.

GReddy Spec LS Front Mount Intercooler for better air flow and cooling into the inlet plenum. You may experience a slight lag due to the front mount (on stock Boost) but if you are running higher boost, you won't notice it.

Trust Airinx Pod Filter for more air to go into the turbo, but can suck in hot air and you don't want that. Best shield off the pod or put the stock air box back on.

GReddy Oil Catch Can collects blow-by gasses that can create damaging carbon and oil sludge build-up in your intake including your intercooler. For Mid to Highly modified cars, if your car is stock, you won't need it.

Apexi "Pencil Type" Turbo Timer, as explained in my last post.

Swoosh Boost & Oil Temp Gauges - Dual Gauge Holder, aftermarket gauges are more accurate then the stock gauges, lets you keep track of your turbo boost pressures and oil temps.

RS-R* Piping from Dump to Cat

Trust MX Exhaust Cat Back

^^ You got a full/turbo back exhaust system to allow better exhaust flow and you will gain a bit of power there.

KYB Short Stroke Struts, great for handling and as they are Short Stroke, the car will sit lower = lower centre of gravity, better control you have over the car = the faster you can turn corners.

King Springs, these will be harder then the stock ones and will add to the handling as mentioned above.

Endless Carbon Brake Pads, I think you have these pads in,

"The Endless CC-A compound is a Ceramic Carbon Brake Pad that provides superb pedal feel.

Designed to exhibit none of the negative characteristics that ceramic carbon compounds are known to have, such as low friction at lower temperatures, the CC-A compound has excellent cold bite while producing minimal amounts of dust and noise.

The Endless CC-A pads do all this while still being friendly to rotors, perfect for a high performance street pad." - http://www.endlessusa.com/brakepad/cc-a/

Higher quality pads then standard.

A stock R32 GTS-T is about 158kW's at the fly wheel (I think), from memory you lose about 25% through out the drivetrain + every dyno will have a different reading.

To be honest I can't say how many kW's the car will have, but at the moment the exhaust will be the one giving most of the power upgrade. (15-20 Kw's) maybe...

If the car is running stock boost, then the air pod and FMIC will give it a few more kW's but nothing huge.

I can easily say this car has probably seen a few track days / drift events.

So your doing the right thing by getting it checked out and get your mechanic to check the turbo as well.

Cool!

  • 1 month later...

congratulations on the purchase

fyi: I recently bought a r32 4door gtst with rb26dett goodness..... track biatch only

got a highly mod'd stagea to keep the roads swept clean :P

where abouts in adelaide?

im down south

congratulations on the purchase

fyi: I recently bought a r32 4door gtst with rb26dett goodness..... track biatch only

got a highly mod'd stagea to keep the roads swept clean :ninja:

where abouts in adelaide?

im down south

nice, that thing would fly! both of em haha

awesome im in the east side.

runs reallly well expect for the sticker i got on it at the moment :)

got pulled into a defect station at the bay and got done for bonnet pins and being too low, lucky i got the stock springs and bonnet tho

congratulations on the purchase

fyi: I recently bought a r32 4door gtst with rb26dett goodness..... track biatch only

got a highly mod'd stagea to keep the roads swept clean :ninja:

where abouts in adelaide?

im down south

nice, that thing would fly! both of em haha

awesome im in the east side.

runs reallly well expect for the sticker i got on it at the moment :)

got pulled into a defect station at the bay and got done for bonnet pins and being too low, lucky i got the stock springs and bonnet tho

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No need to drill any holes. There's plenty of access to reach through and behind all of that steel to "push" from behind with a pulling action on the slide hammer. There's all sorts of attachments you can screw on the end of them.
    • Yea the photos aren't the best. When I was pulling the bumper and headlights out there was a bodyshop guy looking on for it, there is a slight bend behind where the passenger headlight is, but we're talking a few MM and there is a little bit of a bend for the reo. That said it's supposedly well within the "Drill a hole in it and pull it out with a slide hammer to be close enough" and be on our way. The other option is to buy a GTR reo for the GTR bumper bits but this is a $2000+ fix for something Mr Hammer can probably do 99% of the job for and everything will/can line up pretty closely-to-good-enough.
    • That's a write off for sure... Part out? 😛 I kid. It looks like the rad support has a minor minor bend in it too where the rep support sits near. Could just be the photos (and me not wearing my glasses right now). Worst case is you can buy a new radiator support, have it swapped over, and leave the car in paint jail for 12 to 18 months while you build the motor to handle twin turbos or a Harrop SC...
    • It seems the definition of "Gregging" something might need to be expanded?
    • This is why I suggested that there is really nothing that can safely be done in the engine bay at this budget level. Just the work to reassure yourself that the engine won't instantly crap itself the moment the boost gets turned up will wear out the piggy bank long before the first turbo gets installed. Spend $10k and still not have any extra performance? My tip is a version of our standard advice from 15 years ago about buying a GTR, which is not to buy one unless you can afford to buy two. The new version is not to modify a GTR unless you have all the funds required to do it all at once, properly, and enough to rebuild it after it blows up.
×
×
  • Create New...