Aftermarket BOV - Causes RICHNESS!

[DJ984]

Ok... I'm slowly starting to understand this conversation (im a bit useless sometimes.. lol)

I have:

R32 GTS-t with GFB Hybrid BOV...

The BOV is tuned to 'flutter' under 3000RPM (and yes i know it's the turbo not the BOV that flutters but you know what i mean)...

what I want is to get more flutter... I thinbk i know how to do this but the other day i tried a lil bit, then took it for a run and found that common stalling problem... could this mean i loosened it instead of tightening? or is this just 'cause it didn't vent enough back through the system (plumback style)...

So... How do i get more flutter without stalling? (chipped ecu do the trick?)

and how do i get those kool wankie flames???? i know they're just a showie thing but i LOVE em...

cheers,

Dave.

[TTT]

dj984.

tighten your bov.

it has arrows on top for loose and tight.

but basically, it is like any other screw.

clockwise tightens

anti-clockwise loosens.

you want it to flutter at even higher rpm's then you need it tighter.

Or remove it completely..

You want flames..

replace your cat with a stright pipe, run no bov or external venting only bov.

that should give you a really flamey, really shitty running car..

But it will look and sound good so that makes up for it going like a nugget.

[DJ984]

lol... ok... being serious now... if i tighten the BOV too much...(i was going clock wise) could this 'cause the car to stall?

[TTT]

the reason the car stalls or almost stalls is due to the over fueling.

it depends on each car really.

I have seen cars with atmo venting bovs that don't backfire or stall or search at idle or anything.

but then others do it.

Now. if you cent to atmo, it over fuels and it will stall or almost stall.

if you tighten too much, it goes back out the turbo giving you the fluttering sound but it still over fuels and you still stall.

The only aftermarket thing I have seen to fix this is some HKS idle control computer which prevents AFM cars from stalling with atmo venting bovs.

You can't have the best of both sides.

Either you have your cool sounds and stall..

or put a plumback back (standard or aftermarket) and have good performance, cleaner plugs and rear bumper and some little sound.

You can have your flutter and not stall, but this is going to require a new ECU which has a MAP sensor instead of the AFM that your car has now.

But can you justify $2000 for something like a Haltech or some other known brand just for a sound?

[DJ984]

Yeah, i know what you mean there... at the moment, it doesn't stall and does flutter under about 3000RMP so i guess that's how she'll stay... thanks for the help...

[ix9]

flames?

I'm guessing no cat??

*cough* ummmm *cough*

Technically speaking it has a cat :Paranoid:

[Roy]

I personally don't see the need for an aftermarket ATMO bov at all.

aside from sound, it does nothing good.

There are a few reasons why you would chose a vent to atmo BOV. Firstly the momentary rich A/F mixture cools the piston crown, and the rich mixture that cause the pops in the exhaust, may actually aid spooling the turbine wheel.

Then there is that fact that no intercooler is 100% effecient and any air that has ben thru the turbo and intercooler is never going to be cool as ambient air, so why go circulating back before the turbo to be compressed again?

Aftermarket BOVs are great, they just need to be installed proplerly. When i finally wind in more boost, im going to actually run two!

[WLD747]

any better power by running the standard bov and the aftermarket bov?

[paulr33]

An big front mount intercooler will louden the flutter sound as its echos through the piping and tubes. a common demo car of this loud flutter is a vl turbo with a front mount, very loud and high pitched flutter, also higher boost will make a bit louder (i think)

sell your 32 and get a vl turbo ? :flamed:

[red17]

This thread has got to be due to bad tunes or installation problems because ive got a turboXs type H (atmo) that has behaved perfectly since day 1. I still get pops out of the exhaust from time to time but it did that on the standard bov anyway! Fuel economy is identical to the standard bov.

I only fitted it because i was sick of the sensitivity of the stock one and it being incredibly noisy. Is this just an R32 thing? Coz mine used to whistle like **** at every slight throttle change.

I noticed very little noticeable difference in driveability, stalling or lag or any of the other symptoms described in this thread.

Red17

[DJ984]

I used to be able to drive with the stock BOV open.... I think this is cause they are designed to leak... but i could drive along at, say 60, and have my foot on a certain point on the accelorator and drive with the factory BOV open.... was pretty interesting...

[WLD747]

Tonight im going to connect the standard bov with the after market bov. I will post results about the following factors:

* Economy

* Lag between gears

* Pssht sounds

cheers

ak

[TTT]

WLD747 - this will be useless.

Only the bov closest to the throttle body will work.

the other will not open.

If you want them both to operate, they will need to be on the same pipe but on opposite sides..

if that makes sence..

sort of like this...

=||=

where the "=" are the bovs..

[DJ984]

can't you have one on the pipe on the intake side of the intercooler and one on the pipe on the other side of the intercooler???...

[TTT]

yeh you can... but the one closest to the throttle body (where the most air build up will be on gear changes) will be the one that does the venting.

the air pressure in the other parts of the pipes are MUCH less.

[DJ984]

fair enough... good point... so if you where to do that, they'd both vent it's just that the one closest to the intake would vent louder (because it's venting more)?... I was thinking of doing this when i install a FMIC, so just curious.... cheers...

[TTT]

no not really.

if you have an after market bov (where the spring is harder than the stock ones) then it won't open if it is further down the track along the piping..

if you had 2 stock ones (on in the stock position and the other on the other side of the cooler or something like that) THEN, they might both vent.

but aftermarket ones tend to have harder springs so there wouldn't be enough pressure to open both bovs.

just the closest to throttle body would work.

[DJ984]

oh, ok... thanks for the info...

[WLD747]

TEST RESULTS:

BLITZ DD BOV vs STOCK BOV

Ive done a 1 week test on both and have results below.

Blitz DD BOV Results:

* More Fuel

* Slower Acceleration

* Intercooler noise

* Backfire

* Poor Economy

* Car feels like a whale

Stock BOV Results:

* Less Fuel than Blitz DD BOV

* Quicker Acceleration

* Air Induction Sound (no more intercooler sound)

* More economical

* Car feels much quicker

any comments welcomed.

(ps The richness can be fixed by an AFC, but on a standard ecu these are my findings)

[Steve]

how did you adjust the blitz BOV?

when I fitted a bov, with only a pod and exhaust, I only had nice things happen.