Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is this a series 2 center console or series 1?/

I got a day off today, so I decided to do more of my car, and I picked the cup holder lid.

As soon as I finished, I feel addicted to doing more LOL, I'm planning to do my whole centre console, climate control and my triple guage cover :down:

If anyone wants it done in Vic, I'm willing to do a piece for $20-40 (depends on size of part).

img1371k.jpg

img1372v.jpg

img1375g.jpg

img1377k.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 477
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Hey dudes, getting some good results! Currently doing mine atm, have struck a problem.. Can the wrap be finished without tucking it behind something? I need to do the following bits, one has the arrow indicating the small section I want covered, the larger dash piece I'd like the smoother black bit wrapped, leaving the light grey section as is.. Can this be done, adhesive maybe? Cut a small slit to fold it into??

f73b8ae1.jpg

616052a4.jpg

Yes you can end the vinyl wherever you want without having tucked it behind something.

Firstly you are going to want to clean the absolute shit out of those parts, depending on what they are made of, some Isopropyl alcohol is the best bet as it doesn't leave any residue at all once dry.

For edge like that, i'd recommend a little bit of 3M 94 primer (liquid adhesive), just brushed onto the edges of the trim where you want to end the vinyl, give it 60 seconds or so to dry just a little and get tacky, then work quickly to get the vinyl down over it and trimmed up.

Don't forget to post heat it once it's down to speed up the adhesives bond.

  • 2 weeks later...

this stuff is addictive.

Even my laptop got the treatment. ahah.

if anyone wants parts done around Geelong area Im happy to do it

Got 5x 1.27 meters left over. Went a bit crazy. lol

post-52856-0-87867500-1338963387_thumb.jpg

post-52856-0-12835900-1338963394_thumb.jpg

post-52856-0-37433700-1338963399_thumb.jpg

post-52856-0-51588900-1338963411_thumb.jpg

Edited by jonesl
  • 3 weeks later...

I'm thinking about getting a satin black wrap on my GTR track car. How do the wraps hold up to track duty? How long will they generally last on the car? And what do they usually cost?

I'm thinking about getting a satin black wrap on my GTR track car. How do the wraps hold up to track duty? How long will they generally last on the car? And what do they usually cost?

If you are in NSW, contact Mike from Carbon Demon, he'll look after you, tell him Steve from Wrapture sent you.

Hard to say how a wrap will last with track duty, as long as it's not getting sprayed with stones and the likes constantly it should be fine, most vinyl manufacturers warrant their material for 5 years in outdoor australian conditions, but the can last longer depending on how often you drive the car, if it's garaged, and how well you take care of it.

Cost is dependant upon the material used and the installer. but like i said, contact Mike and he will be able to price it for you.

Vinyl ideally sticks to a smooth painted surface, anything less wont be guaranteed by a pro wrapper or the manufacturer warranty. That said it is possible that it will stick to primer, again as long as it's smooth.

I have wrapped some primered parts before, so it can work.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ive got a few damaged bits id like to repair and wrap.

The rear wing is the main problem as it is painted satin black.

Do you know what the best type of primer would be?

Ps. What is the croc or lizard pattern worth per m? (lizard car, awesome!)

Ive got a few damaged bits id like to repair and wrap.

The rear wing is the main problem as it is painted satin black.

Do you know what the best type of primer would be?

Ps. What is the croc or lizard pattern worth per m? (lizard car, awesome!)

Are you talking about paint primer or adhesive primer?

Couldn't tell you with regards to paint, but as far as adhesive primers go 3M's 94 Primer is probably ideal.

That said, you shouldnt rely on an adhesive primer to get the best finish.

  • 2 weeks later...

What i mean is i have to bog, then prime paint over that.

Also the paint on my spoiler is stuffed. so ill prime that too.

Should i put a gloss finish over the primer paint?

What i mean is does it stick best to a gloss surface?

Doesn't stick very well to primer, and no manufacturer will warrant it, nor a vinyl installer.

the ideal finish is one that is like perfect factory paint, so a clear coat will certainly help with the 'stick'

Hey good job man it looks good.

I’m Jealous now :)

& I have a question. How hard is it to do? Cause I once bought a piece

I think it was a cheap version, it does not look good quality like yours

I wanted to do my center console. And I tried a piece and could not really

Get it to set good around the corners or over bumps. I made sure the surface was

Clean but still could not get it to stick well.

Do you think it's because of the quality or you need to heat it, glue it or do something with it?

I've just about done most of the interior... the bonnet and the boot lid.... first time.... also the last time lol

you need a LOT of patience to get a proper finish so if you're gonna tackle this, bear that in mind.

Hey good job man it looks good.

I’m Jealous now :)

& I have a question. How hard is it to do? Cause I once bought a piece

I think it was a cheap version, it does not look good quality like yours

I wanted to do my center console. And I tried a piece and could not really

Get it to set good around the corners or over bumps. I made sure the surface was

Clean but still could not get it to stick well.

Do you think it's because of the quality or you need to heat it, glue it or do something with it?

With vinyl, you get what you pay for, if you buy the cheaper product, you can expect it not to conform as well to curves and more than likely bubble up or not have very good adhesion to begin with.

I've tried many different cheaper carbon films, and have hated every single one. On some occasions a cheap film is ok for flatter panels or those that have light curves, but it really isn't worth wasting your time and money on.

Though more expensive, i highly recommend using 3M's 1080 series carbon, either that or Hexis' HX30000 series carbon. Both are top notch products (I prefer 3M slightly more than the Hexis)

But like i said, you get what you pay for.

Also, as Marsss said, it requires a lot of patience as well as prior preparation. Cleaning before wrapping is almost as essential as the wrapping itself, do a poor job cleaning the surface and you can expect the film lift or look generally crappy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can perhaps see how the R33 appreciators would think so.  
    • Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...