Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is this a series 2 center console or series 1?/

I got a day off today, so I decided to do more of my car, and I picked the cup holder lid.

As soon as I finished, I feel addicted to doing more LOL, I'm planning to do my whole centre console, climate control and my triple guage cover :down:

If anyone wants it done in Vic, I'm willing to do a piece for $20-40 (depends on size of part).

img1371k.jpg

img1372v.jpg

img1375g.jpg

img1377k.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 477
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Hey dudes, getting some good results! Currently doing mine atm, have struck a problem.. Can the wrap be finished without tucking it behind something? I need to do the following bits, one has the arrow indicating the small section I want covered, the larger dash piece I'd like the smoother black bit wrapped, leaving the light grey section as is.. Can this be done, adhesive maybe? Cut a small slit to fold it into??

f73b8ae1.jpg

616052a4.jpg

Yes you can end the vinyl wherever you want without having tucked it behind something.

Firstly you are going to want to clean the absolute shit out of those parts, depending on what they are made of, some Isopropyl alcohol is the best bet as it doesn't leave any residue at all once dry.

For edge like that, i'd recommend a little bit of 3M 94 primer (liquid adhesive), just brushed onto the edges of the trim where you want to end the vinyl, give it 60 seconds or so to dry just a little and get tacky, then work quickly to get the vinyl down over it and trimmed up.

Don't forget to post heat it once it's down to speed up the adhesives bond.

  • 2 weeks later...

this stuff is addictive.

Even my laptop got the treatment. ahah.

if anyone wants parts done around Geelong area Im happy to do it

Got 5x 1.27 meters left over. Went a bit crazy. lol

post-52856-0-87867500-1338963387_thumb.jpg

post-52856-0-12835900-1338963394_thumb.jpg

post-52856-0-37433700-1338963399_thumb.jpg

post-52856-0-51588900-1338963411_thumb.jpg

Edited by jonesl
  • 3 weeks later...

I'm thinking about getting a satin black wrap on my GTR track car. How do the wraps hold up to track duty? How long will they generally last on the car? And what do they usually cost?

I'm thinking about getting a satin black wrap on my GTR track car. How do the wraps hold up to track duty? How long will they generally last on the car? And what do they usually cost?

If you are in NSW, contact Mike from Carbon Demon, he'll look after you, tell him Steve from Wrapture sent you.

Hard to say how a wrap will last with track duty, as long as it's not getting sprayed with stones and the likes constantly it should be fine, most vinyl manufacturers warrant their material for 5 years in outdoor australian conditions, but the can last longer depending on how often you drive the car, if it's garaged, and how well you take care of it.

Cost is dependant upon the material used and the installer. but like i said, contact Mike and he will be able to price it for you.

Vinyl ideally sticks to a smooth painted surface, anything less wont be guaranteed by a pro wrapper or the manufacturer warranty. That said it is possible that it will stick to primer, again as long as it's smooth.

I have wrapped some primered parts before, so it can work.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ive got a few damaged bits id like to repair and wrap.

The rear wing is the main problem as it is painted satin black.

Do you know what the best type of primer would be?

Ps. What is the croc or lizard pattern worth per m? (lizard car, awesome!)

Ive got a few damaged bits id like to repair and wrap.

The rear wing is the main problem as it is painted satin black.

Do you know what the best type of primer would be?

Ps. What is the croc or lizard pattern worth per m? (lizard car, awesome!)

Are you talking about paint primer or adhesive primer?

Couldn't tell you with regards to paint, but as far as adhesive primers go 3M's 94 Primer is probably ideal.

That said, you shouldnt rely on an adhesive primer to get the best finish.

  • 2 weeks later...

What i mean is i have to bog, then prime paint over that.

Also the paint on my spoiler is stuffed. so ill prime that too.

Should i put a gloss finish over the primer paint?

What i mean is does it stick best to a gloss surface?

Doesn't stick very well to primer, and no manufacturer will warrant it, nor a vinyl installer.

the ideal finish is one that is like perfect factory paint, so a clear coat will certainly help with the 'stick'

Hey good job man it looks good.

I’m Jealous now :)

& I have a question. How hard is it to do? Cause I once bought a piece

I think it was a cheap version, it does not look good quality like yours

I wanted to do my center console. And I tried a piece and could not really

Get it to set good around the corners or over bumps. I made sure the surface was

Clean but still could not get it to stick well.

Do you think it's because of the quality or you need to heat it, glue it or do something with it?

I've just about done most of the interior... the bonnet and the boot lid.... first time.... also the last time lol

you need a LOT of patience to get a proper finish so if you're gonna tackle this, bear that in mind.

Hey good job man it looks good.

I’m Jealous now :)

& I have a question. How hard is it to do? Cause I once bought a piece

I think it was a cheap version, it does not look good quality like yours

I wanted to do my center console. And I tried a piece and could not really

Get it to set good around the corners or over bumps. I made sure the surface was

Clean but still could not get it to stick well.

Do you think it's because of the quality or you need to heat it, glue it or do something with it?

With vinyl, you get what you pay for, if you buy the cheaper product, you can expect it not to conform as well to curves and more than likely bubble up or not have very good adhesion to begin with.

I've tried many different cheaper carbon films, and have hated every single one. On some occasions a cheap film is ok for flatter panels or those that have light curves, but it really isn't worth wasting your time and money on.

Though more expensive, i highly recommend using 3M's 1080 series carbon, either that or Hexis' HX30000 series carbon. Both are top notch products (I prefer 3M slightly more than the Hexis)

But like i said, you get what you pay for.

Also, as Marsss said, it requires a lot of patience as well as prior preparation. Cleaning before wrapping is almost as essential as the wrapping itself, do a poor job cleaning the surface and you can expect the film lift or look generally crappy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, the latter. No diff should have a centre replaced without checking clearances because its unlikely to be the same as whatever came out. Not that that stops most people just checking a new centre in
    • Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
×
×
  • Create New...