Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 477
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

whats the best way to do a join, for a bonnet, my R33 bonnet is too big and would need to pieces, any hint or tips, DRIFTT, wanna do my bonnet for a carton of corona???

Lay one in a straight line then place second one next to it............ Not as simple as that but other things like temp come into account.

F#&K that and it is better with 2 or 3 people and if that cheap shit I would not look at doing any job with it.

Edited by Guest
Lay one in a straight line then place second one next to it............ Not as simple as that but other things like temp come into account.

F#&K that and it is better with 2 or 3 people and if that cheap shit I would not look at doing any job with it.

i saw u replied in that for sale thread of his. thought it was too cheap to be true,

Charles I'm waiting for you to do a full gainer on the whole car, excellent work on the Z.

Haha thanks :P but a whole will never happen :)

looks ok

Looks ok only in certain angles, at other angles, the coated just looks like gloss black.

hey just wondering what this stuff is like to use? is it similar to an avery 700 series or thicker like a reflective media? and how long is it rated (3yrs) ?

This vinyl will go soft when heated, so you can work it around corners and stuff.

3M gurantees 4yrs lifespan outdoor with UV protection

hey just wondering what this stuff is like to use? is it similar to an avery 700 series or thicker like a reflective media? and how long is it rated (3yrs) ?

It is nothing like normal cast vinyl but if you have used it a fair bit or done vehicle wraps it helps.

will this stuff loosen on hot days?

say you heated it to strech around something, if it gets hot one day will it come loose?

If you have curves and the correct primer isn't used, yes it will come loose. You have to take your time not stretching it to much and bring those bubbles out before you fit the bits.

Ah k so its a calendered polymeric film. fark must take ages to get it to conform around those small curves, i just want to do boot and bonnet so shouldnt be hard.

Driftt do you work in a sign shop? Im looking at wrapping my car matte black and need to source some vinyl. Spandex, qual sign and robayne pretty pricey over the counter.

One issue with clear coating people forget is that there is movement of the material so on items that might flex the coating will crack, just a point as to why it isn't clear coated.

Ah k so its a calendered polymeric film. fark must take ages to get it to conform around those small curves, i just want to do boot and bonnet so shouldnt be hard.

Driftt do you work in a sign shop? Im looking at wrapping my car matte black and need to source some vinyl. Spandex, qual sign and robayne pretty pricey over the counter.

Message me your details, what you are after and will see what I can do to help you out.

Edited by Guest

Hi Charles, awesome works you've done here! I'd like to get some of those CF vinyl to try on my car. I couldn't pm u coz I havent had enough post yet. Anyway, can you give me a quote and it's gonna be good if I can pick it up next week. I'll hav whole week next week off to play with it. Thanks!

Ever since i saw DRIFTT's pic of a dash being wrapped, I also wanted to wrap mine. How much do you guys reckon it would take to wrap a whole 180sx dash? My dash has a few small cracks and I want to replace it or wrap it in this stuff. Even if this is more expensive then just replacing the dash, I'd rather go with the carbon look.

Ever since i saw DRIFTT's pic of a dash being wrapped, I also wanted to wrap mine. How much do you guys reckon it would take to wrap a whole 180sx dash? My dash has a few small cracks and I want to replace it or wrap it in this stuff. Even if this is more expensive then just replacing the dash, I'd rather go with the carbon look.

I have a whole load of Nissan bits coming in from a mate, he will be doing it on a direct exchange basis with the Carbon Wrapped parts sitting on the shelf ready, started doing them already to build the stock up. Looking at S13, S14, R32, R33 and some other one's not 100% sure. Since you have to use a primer you can use lower grade parts which of course are worth less so even though wrapped the cost isn't much higher then A grade parts.

Got a complete AE86 trim to do now for same guy, better to repair cracks and just wrap it compared to tracking down a new/decent replacement dash.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, does anyone know how I can, or can a moderator remove this advertisement please.  Has been sold a long time ago and would like to remove references. Thanks. 
    • There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder.    if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand new 
    • I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well
    • We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
    • Yeah 4wd (boosted) has a recess in the firewall for the booster, and 2wd is flat - the example in the link shows the flat surface. When you deleted the booster, did you just attach the factory slave cylinder directly to the recess in the firewall with no adaption?  
×
×
  • Create New...