Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK this is the only thing bothering me.. when i start the car in the morning, in the tip i get a bit of moisture, not gushing or anything.. just a little bit of condensation.. im scared this is the start of a blown head/gasket.. happend many times in my cordia/ET and really sucks.

btw i have just recently taken my cat out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29686-blown-head/
Share on other sites

As HRthirtyone said you car is fine.

That moisture is caused because your exhaust is cold and when you start you car, Then istantly you apply 400DC heat to you exhaust headers. Just over half way down your exhaust is the perfect environment for condensation to take place. Then of course you exhaust gases push the condensation all the way out your exhaust until it heats up and evaperates.

Signs of a blown head gasket:

1. Water in the oil: When you pull your dipstick out there is a grey mouldy looking oil at the top of the oil level. (This same oil may also be spotted in the top of the head, just under the oil filler cap.)

2. Bubbeling coolent. Caused by escaping coolent into the motor.

3. Varying/leaking compression on clylinders. (Doesnt allways mean that you blown a gasket, but a good way to tell if something is wrong. e.g worn/broken piston rings)

There are other ways to test if you have a blown head gasket, but these are your main types.

Cheers

Trev

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29686-blown-head/#findComment-605443
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
×
×
  • Create New...