Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive decided to sell my S14 but haven't got the time to be putting it together before selling it.

A lot of money has been spent to get it to where it is. All parts that were to be used were the best of the best.

Car was being built to be a 350-400rwkw street car while I made the S15 more of a Drag car.

More pictures will be up shortly when I get a chance.

Car is 1 week out of pink slip rego, so will need a blue slip if it is to be registered in NSW again.

Rolling Shell - $6000

S14 Series 2 Luxury Spec

Full respray in S2000 Yellow

Bodyform Vertex kit

Ganador Mirrors

Standard S14 wheels - will need new tires for blue slip

Brakes, Suspension, Diff, Interior, wiring all included

A lot of individual parts were completely chrome dipped (front swaybar, brake booster, bonnet rod and a few more)

Body is perfect with no ripples/dents

Paint is immac

Car is in beautiful show condition and lot of money was spent putting the kit on and painting ($5000)

Car was being built to complete show standard so everything that was not needed in engine bay was being relocated

Engine - $5000

S15 Engine rebuilt with:

Arias Pistons - std bore

Spool Rods with ARP2000 Bolts

ACL Race Bearings

Cometic 1.0mm headgasket

ARP2000 Headstuds

Tomei Oil Restrictor kit

Reconditioned Head

Brian Crower Stage 3 272degree 12.5mm lift Intake and Exhaust Cams

Brian Crower Heavy Duty Valve Spring and Titanium Retainers

New VCT Unit for intake, Tomei Adjustable cam gear for exhaust

Tomei Rocker Arm Stoppers

Powerbond Harmonic Balancer - Chromed

Rocker Cover - Chromed

Intake Manifold

Engine is still being assembled atm so it will be sold with 0kms on it and all parts are brand new.

Car was going to receive 3540 or T04z so built to rev to 8500 and handle boost (compression is raised slightly to 8.65:1, std is 8.5:1).

Std S14 Gearbox - $500

Working perfectly

Will come with std 2-piece tailshaft

Exedy 5 puck Button Clutch - $250

Came out of S15 but can be made to work in S14 with S14 flywheel

Was used for 6000km with plenty of meat left

Red DC5R Recaros with Bride Rails - $1600

Immaculate Condition

Brand new Bride MO Rails to suit S13/14/15.

Splitfire Coilpacks for S15 - $400

Working perfectly - 5000km old

Bosch 023 Fuel Pump - $150

Brand new

Bosch 040 Fuel Pump - $100

8000 km old - working fine, upgraded to larger

Saber Radiator with 2 x 12inch Thermo Fans - $500

Brand new radiator with custom mounts welded on for Thermo Fans

Brand new 2 x 12inch Sonic Performance Thermo fans

Defi BF Gauges - $1250

All are white background with Red Needle

Boost

Oil Temp

Oil Pressure

Water Temp

Fuel Pressure

Control Unit II

All sensors - some brand new

Haltech E8 Computer - $1300

S14 or S15 loom - have both - Will do $200 cheaper without looms

3 Bar Map Sensor

Air Temp Sensor

Shift Light

Trim Control Module

Boost Control Solenoid

Brakes - $800

RDA Slotted and dimpled front and rear rotors

Ultima SR Street Race Pads front and rear

Braided brake lines front and rear

Front Mount - $300

Just Jap copy with piping

Good condition

Greddy Full Auto Turbo Timer - $80

Black in colour

Brand new

Trust PEII Catback for S14 - $500

Excellect condition

Car requires turbo, exhaust manifold, wastegate, dump pipe, clutch, injectors and pressure reg and tune and will make the power. Probably another 4-5k to make good numbers. The only other thing which I was only going to replace once the original stuff had issues was the gearbox. I would have upgraded to a RB25 5 speed or gone 3 speed auto.

Pics:

50471172049183076128341.jpg

59711175695224776999944.jpg

n616806023124302132461.jpg

For any questions please contact me via PM or call/sms 0450 906 351

I am located in Western Sydney, NSW.

Bren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296894-stripping-s14a-with-plenty-of-parts/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...