Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Going off this thread HERE I decided to try these injectors out on my neo motor, Those of you with neo's will know how limited the injector choices are at a reasonable cost. sure you can buy drop in injectors but at around almost triple the cost of these... well the deka's start to make sense! At $420 for a set of 6 they are really cheap!

im not the first to give this a crack... urtwhistle provided some awesome info in that thread, however i thought i'd take pics along the way and post up a guide to help more people give it a go. I did do things differently and did not take the AAC valve off as you do not need to. just remove the whole top half of the manifold and put it aside.

first up. a list of what you'll need

hings you will need-

3 packs of bosch plugs (2 in each pack) ACA brand p/n BK402 $13.00 Trade per pack pack

2 spacers 20MM (wide) 12MM (thick) with a hole drilled 8.5MM $cheap

2 of M8x30 bolts

1x throttle body gasket (not needed if you don't break the 1 that is fitted) nissan P/N 16175-31U01

1x can of Lanoline spray

lots of spanners screw drivers, soldering iron, heat shrink, pipe cutter, pipe flarer

and most of all a huge amount of patience.

Start by removing your pipe work and any hoses that join top half of the manifold to other hoses, leave the aac valve on and you can even leave the throttle body on (i removed it as i put a R33 TB on instead of the NEO type) you'll then need a 12mm socket in 3/8 drive with wobble bar set, undo all the top bolts on the manifold and then get to the 3 long ones underneath the front and middle ones are easy to get to but the rear one can take some time. heres where having a selection of different lengths of wobble bar's help.

image0640.jpg

You should now have it looking like this. take note that as you pull the top half of the mani off that you have checked that all hoses connecting it have been removed. put aside along with gasket. get some tape and seal up the lower part of the manifold to ensure you dont drop shit in there. you can now see the fuel rail and injectors, start by removing the injector loom, this is quite easy to do, just pry out the plastic tabs and undo the plugs. put this aside as you'll be working on it later.

now undo the two 12mm bolts on either end of the rail. there are also two 10mm bolts holding the FPR on, once these are undone its ready to come out. now you can remove them by gently prying the rail and injectors away from the manifold or undoing the retaining clips and then prying the rail away from the injectors. since they have been in there for years they are going to be quite firm to remove. just be gentle and you'll be right. Keep the retaining clips as you will need them later.

image0643.jpg

image0644.jpg

Ok now you have everything out ready to modify. as you can see in the next pic its a comparison in size between the neo and the deka injectors... they are 12mm taller then stock, hence the need to space the rail up by 12mm. this is why the rail has to be modded to allow for clearance once the top part of the plenum goes back on.

image0647.jpg

Now its time to modify the injector loom, splice back the plastic sheathing to access the wires and then just do one plug at a time, the white wire with blue stripe is the common power feed positive so wire the red wire on the new plugs to this on all of them. use heat shrink and take your time to ensure a decent solder, last thing you want to do is have issues with the wiring. once all done you can then tape the loom back up.

image0646.jpg

Now you can modify the fuel rail. there is no need to cut any of the metal fuel lines like the link i posted to the other thread suggests, but you do need to undo the 10mm bolt in the centre of the rail which supports one of the lines, then cut off the tab on both the rail and the metal line. you then just bend the lines down a bit and then you can cable tie the main feed back in place to the side of the rail further down if you like. This is all you need to do, it will not fit without cutting that central tab however as it will foul. give the rail a quick clean and then get your new injectors and spray some Lanoline on the Oring and then install them into the rail with the plug's facing up. also install the retaining clip. Once you have all 6 in the rail, with clips on, its ready to go in.

you may have to remove a small metal bracket which is located at the rear of the intake manifold (lower section) which is held in place by a single 10mm bolt... i found it difficult to get the rail in place with this in the way.

spray the other end of the injector o rings with lanoline, line each one of them up and gently push the rail in. you'll feel them slide in quite easy. now that part is done you can bolt it up. Grab your spacers you had made and the longer bolts and bolt the rail in.

image0650.jpg

Nearly done, bolt the FPR back on with the two 10mm bolts, install the injector loom and then refit the manifold back on. make sure you check every single hose that you disconnected from the manifold is refitted. Also ensure the vac hoses are connected to the FPR's you can then turn the ign on to prime the fuel pump to check that there are no leaks, there shouldnt be :) if there is you have most likely damaged an Oring.

put all the pipe work back and and now you'll need to get the ECU retuned to suit... as it most certainly wont run too with with the current map.

I hope this helps people out there who would like to save a bit of money and run a decent sized injector... remember these babies are good for over 400 rwkw too!

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi, any news/updates on this? I'm curious to know how are these injectors working with Nistune - thinking of buying a set for neo myself. What spray shape have you got - wide conical or narrow "pencil" style?

Thanks, Petros

  • 5 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hey, thanks for the feedback Simon-R32, good to know they work properly. Did you reuse brown caps that are pressed on the nozzle side of stock injectors?

chef_stagea, I ordered my set through ballenger motorsports in US of A, got them for ~340USD shipped, took 15 days to receive.

Edited by Legionnaire

no i did not reuse the brown caps.. i just put the new injectors in with new orings and away i go :banana:

injectors are now handling 330 rwkw with ease... plenty head room left.

I got mine through a guy on the ford turbo forums. 420 delivered thro a trader.

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

no probslems using PFC... the problem is they need to be tuned correctly thats all.

there are now 3/4 length deka's out for very similar price (set of 6 for 450 brand new for 60lb or 500 for 80lbs) which means you dont need to worry about raising the rail 12mm... easy!

btw i should also mention that these injectors (the 60lb veersions) handle 360 rwkw and still have headroom and thats on a 50/50 ethanol mix too. however i'm gonna run straight e85 and close to 400 rwkw so will be swapping them out for a set of 80lbs to be safe.

awesome awesome injector for the money..

  • 5 weeks later...

no probslems using PFC... the problem is they need to be tuned correctly thats all.

there are now 3/4 length deka's out for very similar price (set of 6 for 450 brand new for 60lb or 500 for 80lbs) which means you dont need to worry about raising the rail 12mm... easy!

What is the part number for the 3/4 size injectors and where to get them from? I've checked the Ford XR6T Forums but the only thing I could find was an group buy thread which ended some time ago.

I also got this website from here which sell the injectors pretty cheap. http://www.bmotorspo...p/cPath/144_146

  • 1 month later...

What is the part number for the 3/4 size injectors and where to get them from? I've checked the Ford XR6T Forums but the only thing I could find was an group buy thread which ended some time ago.

I also got this website from here which sell the injectors pretty cheap. http://www.bmotorspo...p/cPath/144_146

+1

  • 9 months later...

When you re-tune the ecu after adding injectors, do you just go and select new injector size in cc and set latency only or you need to retune all the cells in each rpm band in the map?? Do you need to retune all the AFRs and timing too??

On a slightly different note, after substituting a Z32 to the original RB25 AFM, do I just select 'Z32' from the AFM drop down list and it is automatically calibrated??

I am running Nistune btw and if a 'retune' is as simple as I described above, then I could do this myself... (rubs hands in excitement..:nyaanyaa: )

  • 5 months later...

I bought 6 of these last week for $259 brand new off ebay USA! How cheap, now off to Bursons to look for EV14 to EV1 connector pigtails and 2X 12mm spacers with 8.5mm holes for the fuel rail...

Edited by rondofj

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome back to the scene! Godzilla Motorsports were well regarded back in the day.  My GT-R had work done there prior to my ownership.   SRS (Street Race Solutions) in Toowoomba worth a look.  They've built some pretty wild Skylines. Their YouTube channel is comedic to watch!  I'm sure they're all on the glass BBQ but they get shit done! 🤣
    • Hard to say what the extra connector is, it looks a bit like a coax type connector, so possibly a separate radio/GPS antenna, or even another camera input?  The V37 series (including the Q50), did go through a model refresh in 2020, since Australia didn't get any Q50s newer than 2019, we didn't get any of the refreshed models, so there could also be other unexpected problems to overcome to swap an older Q50 head unit into a new model V37. There probably aren't too many people around that have made these sorts of changes to a Q50/V37, so you might end up being the first if you do decide to go ahead. ACP is Apple Car Play and AA is Android Auto, they are roughly the same thing for the 2 major phone operating systems (Apple's iOS and Android), it allows you to connect your phone and access a number of your phone applications on your car system.  With Nav apps included, so you could use google maps/Waze or whatever your favourite navigation app is, instead of using the built in navi system.  I think this would be a better solution if it is only Navigation that you are looking as swapping the head unit for. GPS signals are the same around the globe as the GPS satellites continuously circle the globe, but it is the head unit that doesn't allow you to load Australian maps, or at least no-one had made an Australian map that will load up on the JDM head unit. Regarding the TV standards, I assume you are referring to the AV inputs?  I haven't ever tried to use them, Japan used a slightly modified version of the US NTSC system, and Australia uses PAL for composite video, that said, I wouldn't be surprised if a video input could work with either system.  That is mostly irrelevant here though, unless you plan to use those inputs for something?
    • If you've got bucket loads of $. Go single. If not, just upgrade the twins, Garrett -9's or whatever the current equivalent is for a healthy 350awkw and leave it at that. Will probably still cost you 10k to do in this day and age.
    • When you looking to buy injectors?? I could possibly sell you my 1d1700s for decent price. Done little work I just need bigger again 😫 
    • Is a dirty cheese eating surrender monkey in drag.
×
×
  • Create New...