Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bad news I think for me!

While on my way home tonight in Canberra I gave the Stagea a bit of a boot taking off from some lights and all of a sudden the car lurched forward.

Then came the horrible whining sound... Being an M35 it already had a pretty loud whining noise whenever on boost, but now it is hideously loud! Pretty sure I would have woken up a few people in the suburbs. :P

The car goes like a total sack now! Thank god for semi automatic mode, as putting the foot down all the way wasn't doing too much for me while going up a slight hill, trying to get to 80kph with a ton of cars behind me.

So I'm thinking that getting a rebuild on the turbo is probably the way to go. I've seen mentioned in other posts that there isn't really any good off the shelf replacement for the M35 turbo, and good results can be had with a rebuild... Would this be the best way to go for someone who isn't really looking at 400kw at all 4 at anytime in the near future? Of course more power wouldn't go astray! :D

Also, am I going to be doing any damage if I continue to drive it in the mean time? Public transport in Canberra really blows...

Thanks for your help!

Glenn

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297308-i-think-i-just-broke-my-m35s-turbo/
Share on other sites

Its probably thrown bits of ceramic wheel into the cat which could strangle the engine, best not to drive it too far and not too hard. Do you have a good mechanic nearby? Getting the bugger out is a real pain, you will need a hoist.

GCG or ATP have rebuilt them before, both are highflow, boring the housings to suit a new core and wheels. The GCG version is ball bearing, but I went with the ATP bushed core and can highly recommend it.

sounds like it's gone.

If you are happy with the current setup and don't want alot more HP like about 30-40kw's more ATW's go for a standard GCG rebuild with the BB's and steel impellers.

If you what to start pushing above 200kw's ATW's you will more than likely need to go with something around the highflow GT30/71 setup.....bad part of this is how much down low you loose. If you don't have an exhaust you will need from the dump back otherwise the car is just to dangerous out of the hole(e.g.I got beaten by a Mazda 121)

One of the guy's on this forum is working on a GT28 setup which I think from experience would be perfect for our motor and still get to the 200kw ATW. As I said before though unless you plan on doing an exhaust this is more than likely a waist of time and I would stick with a stock rebuild.

P.S. I have my reservations about the GCG BB turbo. Also if you are planing on doing this yourself it's a big job!

bit of reading for you

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/At...mp;hl=m35+turbo

and

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...mp;hl=m35+turbo

and

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/M3...mp;hl=m35+turbo

Definitely rebuild/highflow time.

You can still drive it.

I had to drive just over 150kms like that.

Just do so as gently as you can for as little distance as you can.

PM sent about turbo exchange.

;) It is all in the timing, eh Andy?

let me know when you need it back or where to send it (if required).

I had to drive just over 150kms like that.

+ 1 on that....I had to drive back to Sydney from Phillip Island with no turbo......ohhh the pain!!!

and Scott.....I have no comeback......I am still hunting the 121 for a rerun though!!!!!!.....lol

Quote: One of the guy's on this forum is working on a GT28 setup which I think from experience would be perfect for our motor and still get to the 200kw ATW. As I said before though unless you plan on doing an exhaust this is more than likely a waist of time and I would stick with a stock rebuild.

Thats not you is it Cam? Is the cat out of the bag?

Quote: One of the guy's on this forum is working on a GT28 setup which I think from experience would be perfect for our motor and still get to the 200kw ATW. As I said before though unless you plan on doing an exhaust this is more than likely a waist of time and I would stick with a stock rebuild.

Thats not you is it Cam? Is the cat out of the bag?

lol... Subtle ain't ya?

Edited by iamhe77

nothing wrong with GCG turbos. If you're only new to the forum you may not have seen/read the hundreds of posts on here about the quality of GCG high-flow turbos. They were the #1 most popular turbo replacement for the RB's because they bolted up directly and even fitted the factory water and oil lines. They have had very good reviews from a lot of people. I would've gone with that option with my last stagea (turbo died) but the mechanic who would be doing the work reckoned a GT30 would give me better response. As it turned out, I should've listened to the guys on the forum and not him.

Based on what I've read on here I'd say GCG would be a very good option, although they are around the $1750 mark from memory. That was a few years ago too and with a R34/s2 stagea turbo.

My stock turbo is still going fine at 108,000km but if/when it dies I'll be looking at a rebuild. If I could get it done cheaper than $1000 I would. Not interested in more power really. I went there with the last stagea and dont have the money to do it again.

As far as I'm aware, the only weakness of the factory turbo is the ceramic turbine. Replace this with steel internals and it should outlast the car (provided you're not running crazy boost or anything). Keeping the stock housing etc means the characteristics and tuning of the engine should remain very close to factory, which if you're not chasing more power, is a plus.

I'd go standard rebuild/steel wheel version..

as the guys with power seem to be having gearbox issues correct??

Definitely get a trans cooler, but keep the lines going through the radiator as it wont lock the torque converter until it reaches temp.

My box was slipping when I bought it and it only made it worse when I doubled the torque with the Emanage. A highflow on its own shouldn't make that much difference if you don't go crazy on the wheel choices.

With ATP you can select the compressor and turbine size you want and he just machines the original housings to fit, all oil and water lines fit no problem. A bushed turbo is nearly silent too as there is no bearing whine just booosttt. :D

I don't notice that much lag and I went for fairly large wheels the only lag issue is the throttle body not opening quick enough. I believe the turbines were a tad too small from factory on these engines, just like the dump pipe. :huh:

Hmmm, a standard rebuild with steel internals sounds the way to go. I definitely don't want any more lagginess than this car already has being automatic/drive by wire and such. Of course I'd love some more power as long as getting off the line doesn't suffer too much.

Is there any difference in practicability between a ball bearing and bushed core turbos?

Scotty, did you mean I need a full car hoist to get to the turbo? I have a really good mechanic around the corner but just works out of the garage at his house and I don't think he would have that, maybe just an engine hoist.

It's been mentioned by a couple of people that getting to the turbo without dropping the engine is next to impossible, and Jetwreck mentioned that it took 9 hours to get the turbo back on. Would I be right in thinking that even with an experienced mechanic (not that anyone in Canberra would have experience with an M35) it would still save a lot of time to persist with the engine still in rather than taking it out?

Another related question - Would having any exhaust work done be more convenient at this time? Is getting a turbo back exhaust hard to do with everything in place?

I think this must be karma or something for getting an RX from a dealer for $15000 :down:

Definitely get a trans cooler, but keep the lines going through the radiator as it wont lock the torque converter until it reaches temp.

My box was slipping when I bought it and it only made it worse when I doubled the torque with the Emanage. A highflow on its own shouldn't make that much difference if you don't go crazy on the wheel choices.

With ATP you can select the compressor and turbine size you want and he just machines the original housings to fit, all oil and water lines fit no problem. A bushed turbo is nearly silent too as there is no bearing whine just booosttt. :D

I don't notice that much lag and I went for fairly large wheels the only lag issue is the throttle body not opening quick enough. I believe the turbines were a tad too small from factory on these engines, just like the dump pipe. :down:

I'm pretty sure mine is slipping as well. Only under heavy throttle or when I floor it and it has to change back to 1st. It often takes a few goes to get into 1st gear when doing that.

Did your shift kit help with that side of things? I realise it doesn't fix the throttle lag, but I'm thinking it might be an option to make my gearbox last a little longer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All I can say Duncan is good luck and I hope that Neil did not run any E85 in Cheryl. I have recently experienced the full spectrum of fuel tank issues in my R33's that had been caused by E85 and contaminated fuel. When you take the cover off the top of the tank and have a look inside you will get an understanding of how easy it will be. Best case situation is clean fuel with minimal contamination. My GTR was like this and it was a very simple operation to just grab the fuel pump carrier bracket and slide it up and out of the tank. My three GTS_T's had different levels of fuel contamination that was probably caused by E85 in the fuel.  In the worst case all of the metal components in the tank had rusted to the point where there were pieces of rusted metal swirling around in the tank. This required the removal of the exhaust, the tailshaft, the complete rear cradle and the fuel tank. The components in the tank were that rusted that it took days to get the fuel pump carrier and the mounting brackets out of the tank. When the tank was finally cleaned, everything inside the tank had to be replaced. With the tank all back together I could then reinstall it in the car along with everything else that had to come out. Good luck and I hope that you find a clean tank.    
    • It is a two door. It is black and also still has the OEM wheels and stereo. Exact model would be KR_R32RGFEL_SS According to GTR-Registry.com is a 2 Door Coupe; RB20DE; 2WD no HICAS; MT.F5; (11L) Projector Headlamps and Fog Lights; (12_) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control); (13-14SS) V Selection -- Which seems to be accurate description of my variant. Will try to upload a few pictures soon. The OEM wheels look like the below image. Image is taken from the goo-net-exchange website.  
    • Time: Saturday 18th January - 9am -10:30am Where:  Cafe By Lamanna 10 English St, Essendon Fields VIC 3041  - https://g.co/kgs/mhVKvAB Registration: So we can give the cafe a heads up on rough booking numbers please rsvp below Registration Link: https://forms.gle/wPtfj9Gp8bvCiouo8
    • Welcome Gabriel. At least your car has a glorious RB and not the shitty CA18. As MBS206 mentioned all the good bits can be added later. Two doors or four?
    • And half of them have been converted to turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...