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Im guessing that if the fluids are changed at compliance, they just put dextron in. That could cause these issues.

Other than that, a shift kit speeds up the changes but still waits for the ecu command. Mine still holds first too long if in manual and wont shift up. I have to start in second usually. Im hoping an ecu remap will help, when someone cracks it...

When I say mine was slipping, I mean full revs in 3rd, 4th and 5th and not going anywhere, just like a slipping manual clutch. The final clutches for those gears are just too small so I asked for more new clutch plates to be installed with thinner metal plates between them.

Anything else is probably ecu or fluid related im guessing.

and Jetwreck mentioned that it took 9 hours to get the turbo back on.

I did mine on the ground just dropping the gearbox crossmember. If you are going for a Bush or GCG BB turbo it will be alot quicker than 9 hours as it's a straight refit with no mods.....my turbo was 20mm shorter because of the Garrett BB's that were put in....and trust me that 20mm's makes all the difference.

As for the GCG I have my reservations about them on the way the do there BB's. The turbo is only rated at 450hp with those BB's on our turbo so if you are starting to get around 200kw's ATW's with a piggyback or remap you are at the limits of what the GCG BB's can handle pretty quickly. The Garrett BB setup is rated at 550hp which for me is more practical as I am not pushing the limits of the turbo.

there is an ECU that controls the gearbox.........

its possible this just receives signals from the main ECU, eg throttle input and speed, so maybe this needs to be flashed. no ECU remapper mentions gear changes

Im guessing that if the fluids are changed at compliance, they just put dextron in. That could cause these issues.

Other than that, a shift kit speeds up the changes but still waits for the ecu command. Mine still holds first too long if in manual and wont shift up. I have to start in second usually. Im hoping an ecu remap will help, when someone cracks it...

When I say mine was slipping, I mean full revs in 3rd, 4th and 5th and not going anywhere, just like a slipping manual clutch. The final clutches for those gears are just too small so I asked for more new clutch plates to be installed with thinner metal plates between them.

Anything else is probably ecu or fluid related im guessing.

nah its not quite getting full revs, but does rev quite high sometimes without really accelerating, until I back off and let it settle, then have another go - usually much better the second time. Often only in the lower gears though (ie 2nd and 3rd).

Its had the fluid changed only a few months ago - with genuine Nissan oil - whatever one is the right code- pretty sure it is J from memory. It was done at SA RACE here who seem to know their stuff.

They said they could fit a shift kit for me (but not cheap). I had one in my previous stagea (s2) and that one was fantastic.

Apologies for being offtopic...

Edited by pixel8r
sounds like it's gone.

If you are happy with the current setup and don't want alot more HP like about 30-40kw's more ATW's go for a standard GCG rebuild with the BB's and steel impellers.

If you what to start pushing above 200kw's ATW's you will more than likely need to go with something around the highflow GT30/71 setup.....bad part of this is how much down low you loose. If you don't have an exhaust you will need from the dump back otherwise the car is just to dangerous out of the hole(e.g.I got beaten by a Mazda 121)

One of the guy's on this forum is working on a GT28 setup which I think from experience would be perfect for our motor and still get to the 200kw ATW. As I said before though unless you plan on doing an exhaust this is more than likely a waist of time and I would stick with a stock rebuild.

P.S. I have my reservations about the GCG BB turbo. Also if you are planing on doing this yourself it's a big job!

bit of reading for you

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/At...mp;hl=m35+turbo

and

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...mp;hl=m35+turbo

and

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/M3...mp;hl=m35+turbo

Hi all

iv'e voted with my feet and chequebook and had my turbo upgraded to the gcg b/b gt30/71 hi flow option.

Marty wasley from "mw performance" on the sunshine coast did the removal /refit. He confirms that it is a"cop of a job"However, the refit was made easier with the 3" dumppipe (supplied by Angus(Andrew) thanks mate great bit of work),this dump left more room around it for for fitting.This pipe was connected by front pipe with mandrel bends (then small flexi pipe ,with 200cfm? hi flow metal cat.This was joined to the fujitsubo legalis cat back exhaust to make a very sweet sounding exhaust.

As far as performance is concerned . It now gives a genuine push in the back when fired up in anger.The lag factor in my opinion is actually less than it was originally.It comes on boost about 2300 rpm and then just climbs rapidly.

Perhaps most of this comes with the hi flow exhaust which works and sounds a treat. hope this encourages any one doubting the hi flow gcg option.(I say this knowing others will be after more power but for the moment this will be enough for me)..

graham :thumbsup:

Hi all

iv'e voted with my feet and chequebook and had my turbo upgraded to the gcg b/b gt30/71 hi flow option.

Marty wasley from "mw performance" on the sunshine coast did the removal /refit. He confirms that it is a"cop of a job"However, the refit was made easier with the 3" dumppipe (supplied by Angus(Andrew) thanks mate great bit of work),this dump left more room around it for for fitting.This pipe was connected by front pipe with mandrel bends (then small flexi pipe ,with 200cfm? hi flow metal cat.This was joined to the fujitsubo legalis cat back exhaust to make a very sweet sounding exhaust.

As far as performance is concerned . It now gives a genuine push in the back when fired up in anger.The lag factor in my opinion is actually less than it was originally.It comes on boost about 2300 rpm and then just climbs rapidly.

Perhaps most of this comes with the hi flow exhaust which works and sounds a treat. hope this encourages any one doubting the hi flow gcg option.(I say this knowing others will be after more power but for the moment this will be enough for me)..

graham :thumbsup:

oops my apologies to any constabulary on this site/I meant to say cop of a job,but with no thought of police in anyway shape or form. graham. :P

oops my apologies to any constabulary on this site/I meant to say cop of a job,but with no thought of police in anyway shape or form. graham. :thumbsup:

after having 2 seniors moments, perhaps i should say "bitch of a job " instead. :P

after having 2 seniors moments, perhaps i should say "bitch of a job " instead. :)

its not you. For those wondering whats going on here...try typing in "p i g" (without spaces) into a post and hit "preview". It will change all occurrences of the word "p i g" into the word "cop" - nothing you can do about it.

I notified the forum people a long time ago and its still not fixed. Maybe if enough people comment on it the problem will disappear. I discovered it when it kept changing p_i_g_gyback to copgyback. Really sucks!!

Moderators - please forward this to whoever may be able/responsible to fix it.

As far as performance is concerned . It now gives a genuine push in the back when fired up in anger.The lag factor in my opinion is actually less than it was originally.It comes on boost about 2300 rpm and then just climbs rapidly.

Perhaps most of this comes with the hi flow exhaust which works and sounds a treat. hope this encourages any one doubting the hi flow gcg option.(I say this knowing others will be after more power but for the moment this will be enough for me)..

graham :)

I had a GT30 on my last stagea (s2), along with full mandrel bent 3" stainless steel exhaust (was pretty much straight through the whole way so no restrictions at all) + highflow cat, boost controller, and SAFC (tuned by boostworx). The above is similar to the results I had. However it all comes down to what your preference is for how the car should drive.

The stock turbo will actually begin to build boost around 1800rpm. The 500rpm difference actually makes quite a difference to the overall driveability/responsiveness of the car. It may only be subtle to some but its the difference between having a car thats on boost as soon as you touch the pedal (stock), compared to having a dead spot when you touch the pedal and getting boost a few split seconds later (possibly up to half a second).

Mine used to hit max boost (12psi at the time) around 3800rpm which feels a lot laggier than the M35's stock 12psi at 3200rpm. I am nitpicking but I really missed the instant response from the stock turbo, not to mention the smoother transition onto boost. Yes the bigger turbo did give me much more power, but I rarely used it because 90% of the time the revs sit around 2000-2500rpm (ie. when in traffic). Overtaking was ok because you build boost while the auto is changing down so it was kind of instant once it changed gears (i had a shift kit too).

Fuel economy was a lot better though, as a result of being off-boost for 90% of everyday driving.

The above isn't a criticism of anyone's decision to upgrade the turbo. Overall performance is hugely improved with a bigger turbo, but if you like the "nimbleness" and how quickly the M35 gets up and going, this is what you lose with a bigger turbo. Its still not too bad (used to hit 4000rpm before you crossed the intersection) but its not what I'd call responsive (at least not compared to stock). It was worst in summer because the extra heat means it takes even longer to get onto boost...and lets face it, any stagea without boost is going to be very slow.

I'm just letting people know my experiences from a GT30 in a series 2 stag. The M35 with its improved torque should handle it better though... :D

The M35 with its improved torque should handle it better though... :)

It should but it doesn't....the fly by wire stuff's everything up down low....infact I find it dangerous...the C34 are cable aren't they?.....I have a little over 200kw's ATW's and Mazda 121 can beat me to 40km/h. If I was doing another rebuild I would go for something inbetween the standard and a GT30/71......something that drops of the HP at about 6,300 but still pulls from about 2,800.

Once your moving thought the GT30 build is awesome!!!

It should but it doesn't....the fly by wire stuff's everything up down low....infact I find it dangerous...the C34 are cable aren't they?.....I have a little over 200kw's ATW's and Mazda 121 can beat me to 40km/h. If I was doing another rebuild I would go for something inbetween the standard and a GT30/71......something that drops of the HP at about 6,300 but still pulls from about 2,800.

Once your moving thought the GT30 build is awesome!!!

so how much would a standard turbo rebuild cost and how long would it last before packing it in again?

I am happy with the std setup cos driving is effortless in traffic, get loads of torque at less than 1/4 throttle with gears changing around 3000 rpm.

Economy wise I tried to be 'conservative' with my second fill since getting my arx. 68L got me 420kms. 16L/100kms is not great. But i do mainly city driving as i live less than 15kms from wherever i go so i guess its not too bad.

Pushing past 4000rpm is actually quite boring and seems like a waste of petrol.

It should but it doesn't....the fly by wire stuff's everything up down low....infact I find it dangerous...the C34 are cable aren't they?.....I have a little over 200kw's ATW's and Mazda 121 can beat me to 40km/h. If I was doing another rebuild I would go for something inbetween the standard and a GT30/71......something that drops of the HP at about 6,300 but still pulls from about 2,800.

Once your moving thought the GT30 build is awesome!!!

This was my conclusion exactly. After living with a GT30 for 1.5 years then hopping in the M35, I really loved having the stock turbo again. And with the VQ so much more torquey than the RB, its even better. Needs a little more grunt than it has, but then I dont have an exhaust etc.

so how much would a standard turbo rebuild cost and how long would it last before packing it in again?

Standard turbo with steel impellers and bush would probably be around the $650 mark

Standard turbo with steel impellers and BB would probably be around the $900 marks

High flow GT30/71r with bush about $1,300

High flow GT3071r with BB about $1,650

The above prices are estimates

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