Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Factory Boost Gauge Repair.

scotty nm35

By scotty nm35,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Cleaning a dry solder joint won't repair the connection, you need to heat the solder, remove it using a solder sucker or wick and replace with new solder. It's not like soldering irons are expensive,

Daleo
Daleo

Best thread evar.

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

I found the issue with the factory boost gauge bouncing or not working at all. If you open the sender unit, dont remove the board, just solder the three pins (at the top of pic) that run to the plug u

Posted Images

zelda Enthusiast

zelda

Posted
Posted

Great tip, if you don't have a soldering iron and want to quick fix get a small clean blade and clean around the edges of the solder where it contacts the pcb. That's where mine had the crud built up and it worked a treat after, I noticed their is two small pots on the pcb also, look to be voltage regulators, anybody know for sure? This could be tweaked to help prevent future failure.

Zelda

  • Like 1
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cleaning a dry solder joint won't repair the connection, you need to heat the solder, remove it using a solder sucker or wick and replace with new solder. It's not like soldering irons are expensive, they are much cheaper than a second hand sensor.

Tweaking the pots will likely make the gauge read wrong, then it's useless.

  • Like 2
Aqua Rising Star

Aqua

Posted
Posted

Look at the pic; the three pins, in a straight line at the very top of shot.

They are the ones that need resoldering.

re-solder the 3 pins in red color

2gv51za.jpg

thanks guys! are those 3 pins connected to some wires or the chip? cause when you say resolder that 3 pins. what are you actually doing to it? heat them up so they can connect back to the wires/chip or?

p.s. sorry... real beginner here.

YangLIU Rising Star

YangLIU

Posted
Posted

thanks guys! are those 3 pins connected to some wires or the chip? cause when you say resolder that 3 pins. what are you actually doing to it? heat them up so they can connect back to the wires/chip or?

p.s. sorry... real beginner here.

Yes, heat them up then let them re-connect. I just repaired mine because intermittent not working problem.

  • Like 1
Brick Mentor

Brick

Posted
Posted

Great tip, if you don't have a soldering iron and want to quick fix get a small clean blade and clean around the edges of the solder where it contacts the pcb. That's where mine had the crud built up and it worked a treat after, I noticed their is two small pots on the pcb also, look to be voltage regulators, anybody know for sure? This could be tweaked to help prevent future failure.

Zelda

This is probably the dumbest advice I have ever read on here.. please atleast have some knowledge in anything before recommending how people fix their cars.

zelda Enthusiast

zelda

Posted
Posted

This is probably the dumbest advice I have ever read on here.. please atleast have some knowledge in anything before recommending how people fix their cars.

Thanks for the insult brick.

I'm an electrician by trade. If you didn't know, copper actually oxidises and by gently removing this with a clean blade your essentially cleaning the contact to the pcb.

Sorry that my common sense insulted you ?

zelda Enthusiast

zelda

Posted
Posted

Cleaning a dry solder joint won't repair the connection, you need to heat the solder, remove it using a solder sucker or wick and replace with new solder. It's not like soldering irons are expensive, they are much cheaper than a second hand sensor.

Tweaking the pots will likely make the gauge read wrong, then it's useless.

It's not necessarily a dry solder joint, as you have all found the re soldering of the connections only lasts so long.. This is probably due to over voltage or a lack of it, solder tends to add resistance to a join creating a hot spot causing the actual connection to fail before anything else, hence the reason for putting voltage pots in the pcb to compensate for added or less resistance in the total circuit ( impedance or Z )

Brick Mentor

Brick

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the insult brick.

I'm an electrician by trade. If you didn't know, copper actually oxidises and by gently removing this with a clean blade your essentially cleaning the contact to the pcb.

Sorry that my common sense insulted you

If you are an electrician you should know better and maybe go back to tafe. . I am an electronic technician by trade so I also know about pcbs etc. Firstly you are correct in saying that it may help, but it won't fix the issue. All it may do is minimize the intermittent issue you are having. That being said if you drive a long a bumpy street you will most likely have signal drop in and out as the joint moves around. Secondly the issue will return quickly. For the cost of a $5 soldering iron why wouldn't you just actually fix it.

Thirdly you were recommending people adjust the pots on the pcb. This is the really dumb thing. It is obvious that they would be set to the correct settings from factory. And adjusting them will only make it read incorrect.

So opt simply your original recommendation will not fix the problem and then when the person adjusts the pots they will ruin it all together so I stand by what I said in it being the dumbest post ever.

Brick Mentor

Brick

Posted
Posted

It's not necessarily a dry solder joint, as you have all found the re soldering of the connections only lasts so long.. This is probably due to over voltage or a lack of it, solder tends to add resistance to a join creating a hot spot causing the actual connection to fail before anything else, hence the reason for putting voltage pots in the pcb to compensate for added or less resistance in the total circuit ( impedance or Z )

That is exactly what a dry solder joint is. Just resolder it like Scotty has said and it is fixed.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It's not necessarily a dry solder joint

As an electronics tech that worked on PCB level repair myself, I am entirely confident it is a dry solder joint that needs fresh solder for repair, which I have fixed on a dozen cars at least.

Josh 1 - Zach 0 :P

  • Like 1
zelda Enthusiast

zelda

Posted
Posted

Lol yes Scott. What's causing this dry solder joint? Over or under voltage.

Josh I'm not telling people to adjust their pots I was asking if somebody like yourself who apparently knows everything if they had a better idea on how to find out for sure before tweaking it. ?

All I'm saying is cleaning the joins will also work if you don't have a soldering iron( which I do, just didn't need it) Sure may not be as good. The boost gauge is so crappy anyway I'm not sure why you have to get so defensive about it. It's only good for 1bar.

Just another option guys ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • PLYNX
      Short shifter r34

      By PLYNX · Posted

      Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues. The short hifter will put a greater load on them. If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock. In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox. Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on.  The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.
    • robbo_rb180
      Short shifter r34

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.
    • drifter17a
      Short shifter r34

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Hi all   what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?   my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues   would in your view short shifter screw this up?   people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?
    • GTSBoy
      R34 oil and timing belt change

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...