Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im in the process of getting my front facing plenum up and running but the throttle cable is too long. Im not using the adapter as ive got a bigger throttle body that fits right onto the plenum. Ive got around 50mm slack. What are my options?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297417-shortening-the-throttle-cable/
Share on other sites

Pull the cable from the pedal end through till its firm and get a cable clamp and clamp it off at the pedal to take up the slack. Works a treat. Or you can pay big $ and get it shortened.

this is the way mine was shortened, seems to be working fine so far. a bicycle shop should be able to sort you out with a fitting to clamp the cable.

yeah i know it will cost around $80 over here, i just need a quick fix so i can get it running. the new cable can wait a week or so till i sort out the bugs with the new plenum and injectors.

yeah i know it will cost around $80 over here, i just need a quick fix so i can get it running. the new cable can wait a week or so till i sort out the bugs with the new plenum and injectors.

Cable ties then - answer to the worlds problems! :)

I got a longer one to suit my RB30DE and had to shorten by 50mm. I was able to gently cut the outer sleeve at the 50mm length and then with side cutters cut each ring of the outer sleeve off.

Took a bit of effort but got it there. I shortened the firewall end where it seats into the firewall bracket

Nigel

went to a bike shop and got a little clamp for the pedal end - works just like the stock one except its not welded/brazed. a grub screw clamps down the cable. now ive got the awesome task of finding out why my ECU says my TPS is 13% open when at idle :\

i pulled the stock sensor off the original throttle body and put it onto the Q45, then its just two screws that hold it in place get a mate to watch the computer while you move it around to get the correct throttle closed % (and make sure it hits the correct fully open %) mine closed sits on 0.1%

Edited by TiTAN

You can use the throttle cable from a U12 bluebird/pintara/trx.

It has the same firewall mounts as the r32 and fitted perfectly on the greddy copy inlet on rb25/30

I believe the same age pulsar fits, something like a n13 ca18de or similar. P10 and p11 primera fits too, but i dont know if they come out is aus

i pulled the stock sensor off the original throttle body and put it onto the Q45, then its just two screws that hold it in place get a mate to watch the computer while you move it around to get the correct throttle closed % (and make sure it hits the correct fully open %) mine closed sits on 0.1%

Yeah mate I tried that and fully closed it's at 13%. I'll have a play with it later today and see what I can get it to do.

You can use the throttle cable from a U12 bluebird/pintara/trx.

It has the same firewall mounts as the r32 and fitted perfectly on the greddy copy inlet on rb25/30

I believe the same age pulsar fits, something like a n13 ca18de or similar. P10 and p11 primera fits too, but i dont know if they come out is aus

sweet! thanks for the info mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Add to this... What blew the fuse too? If a circuit feeding power to the coils was blown, how were the coils even functioning to let the car start?   There is some seriously wrong wiring in that car for certain, and I'm betting there is some melted cables somewhere, but I can't explain the 30v either, unless there is something back feeding on that power line that has a dodgy power system and the electronics are giving it hell.
    • This is typically the case with such threads. What I cannot quite get my head around is where a reading above 12V (or 13.8 or 14.x or whatever the maximum achievable voltage might actually be in that specific car) comes from. 25V or 30V should be completely impossible. There's no way to create it. Hard to answer that question. It will literally depend on whether the current tune relies on the values as set. I'd guess it probably does. ie, the real base pressure being 49 means that the flowrate through the injectors will be higher than if it was 43.5. The Haltech's modelling should be handling that, but because it thinks the pressure is only 43.5, then..... I dunno. It should be thinking that it will be injecting less fuel with each pulse duration than is actually happening. So, something is definitely not-as-it-should-be, but specifically what that is is beyond my abilities to imagine. Someone like Dose who spends more time with Haltechs might have a better thought.
    • Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
×
×
  • Create New...