Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a catch can, with a return drain piece at the bottom. it is custom made on the passenger side up the back. i heard it is not possible to plumb it to the turbo oil return as there is pressure. is there a way around it keeping the can on that side. i was told to go to the dipstick but its on the other side as you would know

Cheers...Ben.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297526-catch-can-oil-drain/
Share on other sites

do you really need to return it to anywhere? I am not personally keen on returning catch tank stuff into my sump. it's usually watery/fuelly/oily stuff and aside from that there is usually bugger all in there. I empty mine about once a year and bugger all is in there.

you can T it into the turbo oil drain but it can be a bad idea as you most certainly don't want anything to fk that up as your turbo will quickly get fked if the oil drain gets blocked.

other than that you can drill and tap and put a fitting into the top of the sump and return it there but personally I'd just block it up and leave it.

If the motor is in any reasonable condition it shouldn't be breathing that much anyway.

If you fill a small can in more than a month you've got some real issues.

Do you have proper baffling inside the can etc etc?

otherwise just a 'tin', there is no point having it drain back. Need to filter it first.

Mine will breath 800ML of oil within about ooo... 130KMs of street driving...

Yes, sump is well and truly topped up because I'd been at the track, and NO, I don't have any external (Including the factory) drains hooked up... These are my issues... :thumbsup:

Ash: Was that directed to me? if it was, of course i think a catch can is beneficial thats why ive always had one. i just wasnt sure if it was better to have it draining back to the motor or not, as some friends have completely sealed up catch cans with the drain back to sump, and some have VTA ones with no drain.

I Dont get the claims about motor builds though, im not an engine builder i just get the feedback from a few very well respected engine builders who are on these forums.

Ben...

Edited by 2BNVS
If the motor is in any reasonable condition it shouldn't be breathing that much anyway.

If you fill a small can in more than a month you've got some real issues.

Do you have proper baffling inside the can etc etc?

otherwise just a 'tin', there is no point having it drain back. Need to filter it first.

agreed.

The issue with drain back systems is water contamination (read BEER BARONS post)

Overnight or over any period of time that the engine cools down condensation builds in the vents and lines (much like your exhaust), this vapor will also collect in the catch tank.... which then later drains into the sump... bad idea.

Yeh thats what i thought was the case also with condensation and whatnot...but havent seen or heard of anyone having any dramas with that setup. Especially if oil is changed at correct intervals. Ill be setting my road car up like this once i sort out some new mods(atm no catchcan just lines running to ground). Breather from crankcase inlet side to catchcan, and drain to sump from exhaust side.

I have seen this setup before and there appears to have been no dramas with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, back in the day..... "race" fluids, which were essentially only really "high temp" fluids, used to absorb water more readily. So they really needed to be changed more often anyway. The coincidence of that being directly necessary along with it being what racers would do as a matter of course was just fine.
    • Does the high temp fluid degrade any different over time compared to normal one? That's one thing I've always been wondering. Because a track car is going to get the fluid flushed probably way more often than every two years and will see less kilometers driven. I would think the requirements are different. I'm running Motul RBF 600 in mine. Was recommended by my mechanic before a trackday and I've stuck with it since. Hasn't seen the track since but I've kept buying and using it for servicing anyway.
    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks.    OH, a quick side question - would you use brake fluid from an opened container even if the lid has been on? Eg, if you have a bottle that you opened last time you flushed, it's been tightly closed, is it still good? 
    • Nice, is there a post with the new 4" dyno curve?
    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks. 
×
×
  • Create New...