Stalling/cutting Out While Spooling

[Sub_woolfer]

Hi guys, my rb25det has just had a turbo reinstalled into it after the last one blew. In the month coming up to the turbo install, the car stalled when I pulled up to lights to stop, then i learned if I pulled the car out of gear early and let it roll to get air moving through it as I was approaching the lights, it would stall much less.

Then the turbo went in. I now have a new problem. While spooling, although at around 4k rpm, it sounds like im backfiring and even worse, it begins to cut out only for one second then goes on spooling. If im already at about 5 - 7k rpm then give it the beans, it doesn't cut out or give me probs at all. I replaced the afm and the afm loom because it was cracked and worn and put a pod on too, thinking i wasnt getting enough air.

FYI - starter motor is on its way out in a major way. Im thinking either starter motor, coil packs or sparks. anything further im missing?

[mad082]

well it really comes down to what boost you are running. and i am assuming it is just a stock replacement turbo and stock ecu? if you are running boost above about 12psi then the missfire could be (and most likely will be) caused by the ecu being a buzz kill and not liking the amount of airflow it is seeing. only way around it is aftermarket ecu or to lower the boost.

most likely cause though is a mix of coils and plugs. weak coils and/or plugs would cause the stalling pulling up to the lights, especially if you have an atmo bov. start with the plugs as they are the cheapest at about $30 for a set of BCPR6ES.

[Sub_woolfer]

yes, standard turbo and standard boost.

do BCPR6ES sparks come 0.8 off the shelf or do they need adjusting? fair enough the sparks might fix the issue with stalling at lights, but will it also deal with the car shuddering and cutting out while spooling?

thanks for ur help buddy, truly appreciate it.

[mad082]

yes BCPR6ES are 0.8mm off the shelf. if they have -11 on the end then they are the 1.1mm version.

the suddering etc while spooling may be caused by the sparkplugs not able to ignite the fuel either because they are fouled/worn or because the coil packs are weak and arcing out. while you have the coils out to change the plugs i would tape up the stems of the coils and the base of them with electrical tape and see if that also helps the problem

[mad082]

oh and there is no way the starter motor can be affecting anything (unless it wasn't dissengaging, but then it would be making bad noises when driving). the starter motor only activates when you turn the key to start. other than that you could take it out of the car and leave it at home and only put it in to start the car in the morning (as long as you didn't have to stop anywhere where you couldn't park on a hill to roll start it, or stall it)

[payback21]

Is the car hard to start in the mornings?

[Sub_woolfer]

Is the car hard to start in the mornings?

hey mate, no cars not hard to start in the mornings. not other then the starter motors grinding noise. nothing mechanical other then that.

[Sub_woolfer]

oh and there is no way the starter motor can be affecting anything (unless it wasn't dissengaging, but then it would be making bad noises when driving). the starter motor only activates when you turn the key to start. other than that you could take it out of the car and leave it at home and only put it in to start the car in the morning (as long as you didn't have to stop anywhere where you couldn't park on a hill to roll start it, or stall it)

i've got a set of those trojan allan keys that come on a loop which u cant seperate. at the end of those keys, there's the inset and the key is a ball (if u know wot i mean) so u can work on an angel with the bolt ur trying to tighten or loosen. that snapped off onto the one of the bolts holding the cover for the coils and sparks. as soon as i find a way to get that out and unbolt it all, i'll take ur advice and hopefully it all works out. again, thanks for the help buddy.

[mad082]

yeah i have a set of allen keys with those ball ends on them i use at work. i think half of the small ones have broken off, LOL. all the ones from 4mm and up are still holding up well despite some pretty hard use, but they are a good set.

[Sub_woolfer]

cars spark plugs have been replaced with BCPR6ES plugs and problems persist.. any more suggestions?

[scotty nm35]

If you can get big side cutters onto the head of the bolt vertically and crimp it as you twist the handle to crack it. Works every time. Otherwise just drill the head off.

[mad082]

i'm guessing it's your coils then. they are a bit more expensive.

[Sub_woolfer]

i'm guessing it's your coils then. they are a bit more expensive.

ok. when i opened the cover to expose those things that sit above the spark plugs, were they the coil packs? are they what need replacing? do you use second hand ones? are there aftermarket ones? whats the procedure?

[mr turbo]

second hand stock ones pob will not be much betta than yours maybe.

[Sub_woolfer]

second hand stock ones pob will not be much betta than yours maybe.

so there are aftermarket ones u can buy? whats the deal? hows it all go?

[mosquitocoils]

Splitfire coilpacks run about $600 give or take... it's mainly the fact that they're brand new that gives the illusion that they work better than stock.

I have them in my car.

You could try siliconing your coilpacks up, there's a tutorial in DIY section.

[mad082]

yes those were the coils. they are also different ones for series 1 and series 2 r33's.

if you have a series 1, something else you could try before new coils is a new ignitor pack. it is a square thing at the back of the cover. series 2 have the ignitor built into the coils, where as series 1 have an external ignitor. this can play up a bit as they are getting a bit older now. if yours is a series 1 with the external ignitor, try to borrow a mates ignitor (if you have a mate with a s1 r33 that is)

[Sub_woolfer]

yes those were the coils. they are also different ones for series 1 and series 2 r33's.

if you have a series 1, something else you could try before new coils is a new ignitor pack. it is a square thing at the back of the cover. series 2 have the ignitor built into the coils, where as series 1 have an external ignitor. this can play up a bit as they are getting a bit older now. if yours is a series 1 with the external ignitor, try to borrow a mates ignitor (if you have a mate with a s1 r33 that is)

its a s2..

[Sub_woolfer]

the problem has now blossomed into a rite pain in the ass. just driving regularly on the freeway (no boost, 5th gear, around 3k rmp) and i noticed that no matter how hard i nudged the accelerator, it wouldn't give me more revs. it tried to cut out on the freeway while it was moving at about 100kms/h.

fuel pump?

[mad082]

pull out your spark plugs again and inspect them. that will give you an indication of whether it is a fuel issue. if they are black then it isn't a fuel issue but a spark issue. if they are a light colour then it is a fuel issue. if possible get someone to drive behind you and make it play up. if they see unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust when it missfires then you know it's a spark issue.