Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pull out your spark plugs again and inspect them. that will give you an indication of whether it is a fuel issue. if they are black then it isn't a fuel issue but a spark issue. if they are a light colour then it is a fuel issue. if possible get someone to drive behind you and make it play up. if they see unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust when it missfires then you know it's a spark issue.

legend. will do

how much boost you running?

i have a similar issue and i thought its just the stock ECU fuel cut or R&R, if i reset the ECU it will be fine for a while....

how long was a while.. what did the final problem turn out to be?

he is running stock boost. he said it in an earlier post.

this brother from another mother.. been with the problem since the start of this pain the rear end hole!

its been raining in melbourne. when the spark plugs were changed over, i didnt replace the cover so i dont want to do too much work and, i dont think anyone'll be able to see whats coming out of my exhaust.

generally if the fuel pump is playing up it will usually only be in the high end where it starts to lean out. generally it should be fine at lower rpm as the fuel being used is very low so the pump should be able to flow well enough.

generally if the fuel pump is playing up it will usually only be in the high end where it starts to lean out. generally it should be fine at lower rpm as the fuel being used is very low so the pump should be able to flow well enough.

is it worth replacing? exactly as u say it does..

wouldn't hurt to replace it to be on the safe side, however if it isn't the issue then you have wasted a few hundred dollars. you would be best off putting the car on a dyno to get the AFR's checked to see if it is leaning out. that way if the AFR's are fine you can put the money towards finding out exactly what is the cause.

First time Ive had a drama with the car is today :laugh:.

Turns out mines doing same thing, But it does it at anything about 0+. shuders, hesitates, splutters, as if a cooler pipe has gone off :S

all new Gear, intake, gaskets, splitfires, tomei z32, about 80 dyno runs, never had an issue. today started it, driving to work.. this happening >.<...

wat the f!,.. PFC map?

I have no idea bro, sorry. Man, I'm sending the car to a dude in Melbourne that comes highly recommended. Supposed to go today but had a wedding I sorta forgot I had to go to. I'll go to him early on Monday. If he tells me the cars problem, I'll pass that on to you, or if you're in Melb. tell me and I'll give u his details.

the dude fixed it in 15 seconds. f'ing very good guy.

#1, the turbo we changed was boosting (or trying to at least) at 22psi,

#2, the afm was dodge so i replaced with the another standard one,

#3, the loom that sat in the afm was pretty shockingly crusty, so we changed that and he crimped it into place,

#4, the bov i had on the car was pushing a lot of what was in the pipes out, so the sensors got crappy readings and made it try and cut out,

just little bits and pieces. the dude did a massively good job, anybody in melb who wants serious work done to their car should go there.

i hope some of these steps help u in ur problem cuz.

good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...