Jump to content
SAU Community

Changing To A 4 Puk Clutch

.ady

By .ady,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

.ady Enthusiast

.ady

Posted
Posted

so blew my stock clutch and i bought a 4 puk NO CUSHION. i know that the less puk it is the harsh it is for daily driving(start stop start stop peak hour traffic driving).....and they tend to breaks boxes and shit want to sell the clutch to get maybe a 5 or 6 puk?

but before i do that just want to get an idea of how it feels. does it breaks boxes depending on how u drive? pros and cons all that shit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297896-changing-to-a-4-puk-clutch/
Share on other sites
.ady Enthusiast

.ady

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the clutch does have springs in the centre? pics below also from what i could find from exedy (which was a bitch to do) clamp load is 5400 what units im not too sure.

2ryndx2.jpg

28tl7d5.jpg

as for power goes i am/ will be putting 80-100 killwasps dnt think i can drag it up anymore without spending serious bucks! it is mostly used as a weekend warrior and if its up to spec it will get some track time. start stop thing only happens if i get stuck in peak hour which is pretty rare as i usually avoid this. i live close to the city as well so this can be counted as some what start stop start stop

reason i am putting a button clutch in is becuz i want it to engage really good compared to a stock or jst a normal hd one. happened to have this 4 puk lying around if it were to me i would hav a 6 puk but that cud happen depending if this 4 puk is that gay

ssshonky Grand Master

ssshonky

Posted
Posted

If you are not going to be putting out a whole lot of power why not just get a standard HD full faced organic clutch? I had a 4 puck before and YES you do get used to it , but its a bitch if you dont really need one. Reversing is also a bit of a pain in the ass.

How many K's has the existing clutch seen ? Not really worth putting it in unless its near new. Just my opinin there.

.ady Enthusiast

.ady

Posted
  • Author
Posted

does matter if its postive or negative comment i jst want a good idea here.....my stock clutch is gone and this is wot i hav lying around its seen about 5000km? i am considering jst putting a full face heavy duty clutch in but ive got this there jst want to idea whether its a good idea to use it or not

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      nvm this comment
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      @Dose Pipe Sutututu I read your replies RE: R35 GTR MAFs, any ideal spots to put on? Obviously will need the adapter plate. Will be having a cross over intercooler fitted shortly, would putting it a bit before the TB be okay?
×
×
  • Create New...