Jump to content
SAU Community

Honda Owner Cant Remove Wheel Nut


VB-
 Share

Recommended Posts

here is another good one, but goes to 65 pages though

Titled Spanish tuner

some mods in the thread

those are "sin grooves" "that will make the mixture travel faster to the centre of the chamber, thus improving efficiency"

cimg9154nc7.jpg

new clutch but maybe wrong splines?

p1020795copiaoc9.jpg

no worries, grind off the centres

p1020799copiady6.jpg

weld back on

p1020816copiavk1.jpg

theres heaps more, just check out the pics if you don;t have time to read

Personally,

I'd prefer to "Vaya Con Dios"!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

lol there's an almost identical thread to this which has been sent to the wasteland, pretty sure the 'bag of sand in the intake' one was someone taking the piss, well thats what the original thread seems to say anyway.

BTW marc, the old GQ here has Exhaust Gas Recirculation from the headers back into the intake apparently for fuel economy or some other BS

plenty of cars have that. the magnas do, the pulsar does. but direct exhaust injection or whatever it was wasn't just a small pipe that allows a very small amount of gas through which is controlled by a valve. this was having the header pipes run over the top of the engine and into the throttlebody. there was NO actual exhaust outlet

here is the actual drawing the guy posted (with added fail comment)

DirectExhaustInjectionFail.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

plenty of cars have that. the magnas do, the pulsar does. but direct exhaust injection or whatever it was wasn't just a small pipe that allows a very small amount of gas through which is controlled by a valve. this was having the header pipes run over the top of the engine and into the throttlebody. there was NO actual exhaust outlet

here is the actual drawing the guy posted (with added fail comment)

DirectExhaustInjectionFail.jpg

LOL?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

EGR- exhaust gas recirculation is to reduce oxides of nitrogen in emissions it is on a heap of cars and it only works when the car is at cruise throttle openings with the engine at operating temp. The amount of exhaust is only around 5% of total mixture though nothing like the DEI system schmatics previously posted.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

:P

What the hell is wrong with some ppl haha, it would have been easier to have spent another 15mins looking for the cap and putting it on, wouldnt have taken that long to find it surely.

Apparently some apprentice who used to work where I work ( ages ago ) couldnt get a wheel of and decided to cut the spokes with a angle grinder to get it of, only then to realise after it was of that he F**ked up haha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...