Jump to content
SAU Community

Converting A Auto To A Manual In A R31

notsure

By notsure,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

notsure Newbie

notsure

Posted
Posted

Hi guys I was wondering if you might be able to help me out with some info, I am looking to buy a R31 Skyline 6 cylinder, a friend has one forsale and it has a LSD Diff and extractors, and it has a auto box. I wouldant mind making a bit of a project out of it and I was wondering what the 6 cylinder engine would be like to upgrade? I understand they run a RB30 which is the same as the RB30 in the VL and maybe in the future I could run the same turbo kit?

As far as the Auto is concerned will I still be able to get fairly good performance from the auto or am I wasteing my time? I am limited to a auto until I get off my P's Which brings me to my last question which is would it be possible to convert it from a auto to a manual with out too much trouble?

Thanks

Andy

WESTWD Community Regular

WESTWD

Posted
Posted
I made the mistake of passing my test in a auto.. :D got to wait until I get on my greens before I can drive a manual, so im trying to find half a decent car on a budget :)

What state are you in?

Does this "driving manual on green 's with auto license" appky in VIC?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • sunsetR33
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • sunsetR33
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.
×
×
  • Create New...