Jump to content
SAU Community

R31 - Resto!


Mr. Untouchable
 Share

Recommended Posts

This is my best mates 1987 R31 Ti skyline. Was purcahsed for 500 smackeroos from a lady that used it for most of its life as a shopping trolley. Since its the Ti model, its fully optioned, electric everything cruise control etc.

it was going to be a great daily.

I drove the car home and after some slighlty spirited driving it developed some nasty nasty engine noises. And oil preasure went west.

so a much fresher rb30 was sourced, a VL manual g/box was sourced, along with a manual r31 tailshaft and the rest of the gear to get it running.

whilst the motor was out we thought, hey may aswell paint the engine bay incase we wanna tidy it up someday. After we got it running we thought that we may aswell tidy it up straight away as it had a fair amount of body damage from 22 years of car parks etc.

well it slowly got outa hand, me being a panel beater and brody being a spray painter and both being pretty fussy.

in the end we removed the body moulds and shaved the boot lock and arial holes. the rear bar copped some plastic welding to remove unwanted 80"s moulds and join lines. to run the series 3 bar with series 1 lights and pintara grill we had to chop 18mm out of the sides of the front bar. Along with removing so more 80"s crap

all the door moulds have locating holes so all the holes along the doors and front guards and dog legs had to be shaved. This took months and slowly went from tidy up to all out panel & paint.

anyways heres a few pics

post-47373-1259538975_thumb.jpg

post-47373-1259539034_thumb.jpg

post-47373-1259539171_thumb.jpg

post-47373-1259539453_thumb.jpg

post-47373-1259539491_thumb.jpg

post-47373-1259539551_thumb.jpg

post-47373-1259539622_thumb.jpg

post-47373-1259539672_thumb.jpg

post-47373-1259539729_thumb.jpg

post-47373-1259539795_thumb.jpg

post-47373-1259539861_thumb.jpg

post-47373-1259539900_thumb.jpg

post-47373-1259539932_thumb.jpg

post-47373-1259539982_thumb.jpg

post-47373-1259540006_thumb.jpg

Edited by Mr. Untouchable
Link to comment
Share on other sites

its not 100% complete it now has some bigger profile tires on it along with better wheel spacing. The windows are gonna cop some 25% tint.

its got brand spanking monroe shocks and king springs. fresh pads and the calipers are now red.

there has been a lot of discussion about engine mods. some of the ideas were set it up to factory VLT spec, another idea was 25 head and loom etc.

If I end up with the car, I will fit a aggressive NA cam, valve springs and machined rocker shaft supports, fit a hp4 chip or something and a decent fuel pump. maybe deck the head for added compression and fit the thinest head gasket I can get.

and a nitrous kit is all to easy to set up so that would be on the cards, nothing major just a wet kit set up with a 50 shot or something.

next project is going to be a 32 gtst, with either 25 or 26. widebody, sorta going for the batmobile look.

Edited by Mr. Untouchable
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah well funny that, we actually have some series 3 lights but when fitting them, it just didn't really impress, and we wented to keep the whole thing a bit different, and as every man and his dog convert to series 3 front we didnt really want to do it.

as for mods, we have a spare rb30, so taking the head off that and getting the works done. 5 angle valve job, porting, new lifters, heavy duty valve springs, machined rocker shaft supports, new camshaft, decked slightly for added comp. thinking maybe MLS headgasket, new timing belt, waterpump.

stage 4 chip, walbro 255lp/h intank pump. I'm going to fab up a 3" stainless intake pipe. Also a CAI setup and set up a Nitrous kit at the same time.

hoping to have it done for powercruise.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't bother with any of that engine stuff. You might make 10kw over the stock 85kw or so at the treads, wheee!

Same money, less effort get a VL turbo manifold, hi flow T03, set of VL turbo or RB20DET redtop injectors, cheap intercooler, 3" exhaust and darkhalf chipped ecu (see 31 forums), and you'll make 150+rwkw on sfa boost.

I suppose being NA and making 95rwkw is different though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't bother with any of that engine stuff. You might make 10kw over the stock 85kw or so at the treads, wheee!

Same money, less effort get a VL turbo manifold, hi flow T03, set of VL turbo or RB20DET redtop injectors, cheap intercooler, 3" exhaust and darkhalf chipped ecu (see 31 forums), and you'll make 150+rwkw on sfa boost.

I suppose being NA and making 95rwkw is different though.

yep thats the easiest option, best value for money, No doubt. 1, we want to stay different, plus the sound of a lumpy as hell NA 30' is kinda cool. 2, the head work is going to be bascially FREE, as we are repairing/painting some bits as a sway job for the labour on the head work. VLT bits will not be free, keep in mind the car is a total budget bus.

we are going to be able to do the engine work, Nitrous included for Less than the cost of VLT gear bolted on. Trying to keep it different, more so than chase the few extra KW's as we both agree the 150 odd the VLT kit will produce is still kids power anyways.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I have no doubts about the rb30e+t floody but I've already spent too much on this car lol it was supposed to be a runaround till the 32 but oh well we all know the story. The head work just seems to be the easier/cheaper option ATM with all the labour free and while not the bigger power gainer it should still be a bit of fun to drive and get a few looks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work on the ol-ye 31. My old (12 years ago) gts-x coupe was black over silver.

Black cars rule!

Put a bigger fuel pump in the tank and run a 100/150hp shot of gas.... just make shure you have a good exhaust and set of headers, otherwise the ehaust temps will get to high for sustained use.

I love gas!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work on the ol-ye 31. My old (12 years ago) gts-x coupe was black over silver.

Black cars rule!

Put a bigger fuel pump in the tank and run a 100/150hp shot of gas.... just make shure you have a good exhaust and set of headers, otherwise the ehaust temps will get to high for sustained use.

I love gas!

Headers, Check, exhaust, check, fuel pump, going in very soon!

gas it will get!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

love it!, the front end with the back dated s2 headlights n black pinty grill are nice and unique.....make it look very piggy.

Edited by willL
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah was originally going with the whole series 3 front end but I think it looks better as is on this car anyway which reminds me I've got a set of series three headlights if anyone knows anyone who'd want them.........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
×
×
  • Create New...