Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,i recently bought cheap spark plugs to go into my r33 but a couple hours after i put them in my car it started over revving????????

it usually revs at idle around 850 rpm but it now revs at 1200 rpm at idle.

could it be the cheap spark plugs cause i was told that cheapo ones arent good for turbo cars and i was meant to put either platinum or iridium dont know if thats the right spelling but yeah either of those 2.

any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298413-spark-plugscan-they-affect-idle/
Share on other sites

also when i was putting them in my friend increased the gap on all the spark plugs,he told me it helps with something like performance or making the spark plugs last longer?

just thought i would add that as well just in case when he made the gaps bigger it may have caused the problem because the idle was at 1400 rpm and i had to turn in the idle screw to get it down to 1200 rpm.

plugs are plugs. so longs as they're in the right heat range they're fine. what part number are the plugs? should be a heat range of 5 or 6.

some people will tell you that you HAVE to buy platinums, other people will tell you that they do nothing. doesn't really matter...

the increase in gap would normally make it miss as the standard coil packs don't put out enough juice to spark anything past 1mm. most people do .9mm (standard gap). RB20s have 1.05mm gaps, so if you've got 1.1 it shouldn't be TOO bad.

Shouldn't really touch the idle screw man..

What else has been touched?

plugs are plugs. so longs as they're in the right heat range they're fine. what part number are the plugs? should be a heat range of 5 or 6.

some people will tell you that you HAVE to buy platinums, other people will tell you that they do nothing. doesn't really matter...

the increase in gap would normally make it miss as the standard coil packs don't put out enough juice to spark anything past 1mm. most people do .9mm (standard gap). RB20s have 1.05mm gaps, so if you've got 1.1 it shouldn't be TOO bad.

Shouldn't really touch the idle screw man..

What else has been touched?

what happens when you touch the idle screw?i had no other choice as the car was revving too loud.

when i started it up it was like someone had there foot on the pedal contantly and there was no way i could drive my car around revving so high.

i will get the part number for the spark plugs in the morning as im taking them out,the only other things that have been touched are the plenum,the throttle body, the rocker covers and the aac valve,the plenum and throttle body had some carbon build up so we cleaned it all off and the same with the aac valve and we only took the rocker covers off because it made it a heap easier the put the plenum back on and we put it all back together carefully to make sure it was done right.as far as i know there isnt an air leak but they are near impossible to track down if there was one.

Oh dear, you cleaned carbon from the throttle body. This is a common cause for high idle in GT-Rs, so I wouldn't be surprised if the same thing happened in GTSTs.

You may also have dislodged the TPS so it no longer sends the "throttle closed" signal to the ECU.

Oh dear, you cleaned carbon from the throttle body. This is a common cause for high idle in GT-Rs, so I wouldn't be surprised if the same thing happened in GTSTs.

You may also have dislodged the TPS so it no longer sends the "throttle closed" signal to the ECU.

is there a way to fix this?i didnt know that cleaning carbon could do that to it and what is TPS?sorry not good with abbreviations and can that also be fixed?

what happens when you touch the idle screw?i had no other choice as the car was revving too loud.

when i started it up it was like someone had there foot on the pedal contantly and there was no way i could drive my car around revving so high.

i will get the part number for the spark plugs in the morning as im taking them out,the only other things that have been touched are the plenum,the throttle body, the rocker covers and the aac valve,the plenum and throttle body had some carbon build up so we cleaned it all off and the same with the aac valve and we only took the rocker covers off because it made it a heap easier the put the plenum back on and we put it all back together carefully to make sure it was done right.as far as i know there isnt an air leak but they are near impossible to track down if there was one.

we're in the same boat,it aint your spark plugs because mine was fine until i cleaned all the carbon from the throttle body and the top of the plenum as well.

now my car sits at high idle with no explanation of why it does it?

you need to reset your ECU, or perform and Idle air re-learn.

cos the ECU has 'forgotten' the signal that determines how much air and how much the throttle needs to open, for a solid idle.

Problem is, ive got no idea how to do that on a skyline...

should be just pull out the fuse for the engine computer, then leave it for about 10 minutes, then pop the fuse(s) back in and that should do it.

But then again, ive never done it on a skyline.

Take it to a nissan dealer, they can do it all for cheap as chips, or someone in here will know how to do it...

try this thread for more info: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hi...Rb-t297518.html

and these two DIYs should solve your problem (i hope!)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...tml&hl=idle

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...tml&hl=idle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In a few years from now, you'll regret that. It'll eat away at you, knowing the truth of the ugly hiding beneath the beautiful exterior... 😛
    • I don't think the G2 profile is particularly dangerous for the engine per se, more just are you actually ok with the turbo lag trade-offs? If the answer is yes then go for it. I personally don't think I'd be ok with it because I spend so much time at lower RPMs and I really enjoy the feeling of being able to stay in 5th gear on the highway and just roll into the throttle to get boost. Or staying in 3rd gear on "gentle canyon cruises" without feeling the turbo lag too badly. The 525 pump should be able to run flat out on factory lines but I would bet the pressure drop from pump to regulator is quite impressive. I don't know how much it would be exactly but I've seen figures like 30 psi thrown around.
    • It's interesting seeing everyone talk about what level of risk they are happy to tolerate.  Building a GTR always has a level of risk, you could be that lucky guy that drops 20k on the engine build alone and still has the thing go pop on the dyno. Life is fun like that.  The way I see it, the thing is a toy to be enjoyed. I'd be happy to turn up the power on stock motor and limit the risk with sensible tuning and engine protection. If it still goes pop, it is what it is. The car isn't a daily driver so it can happily sit while a plan is made to sort it out.  Given this thing will be a street car only, I really feel it's worth the (relatively small if managed well) risk to turn the power up to around 350KW on e85.  I don't think anyone getting into the skyline game now is doing it out of logic. Surely it is a purely emotional decision so I'm not sure how important it is to think about the engine build logically. The heart wants what it wants.  @joshuaho96 little note for Josh, I run my 525 pump flat out all the time and through the factory lines without any issues. (excluding the melting connectors, that's sorted now. we'll pretend it never happened lol)
    • But the Nexus S3 is very expensive and won't be as purpose-built for the application as a separate electronic boost controller :^) More seriously my pet issue here would be that the Walbro 525 running at 100% duty cycle is going to require more FPR than the stock setup can handle. I'm also pretty sure from what I've seen elsewhere you might want to slow down the pump regardless unless you're going to come up with some way of upsizing the fuel lines coming from the fuel tank. Factory 8mm fuel line doesn't actually flow very much if you want to keep pressure drop down between the fuel pump outlet and FPR. If you really want to "keep it simple" I would run only as much pump as you need and source a fuel pump controller to slow down the pump in the vain hope of being able to run stock-style FPRs which are pretty dinky. Or just use the HICAS lines and it should be mostly fine. OP should also really think hard about what profile they'd want out of the turbo. My pet choice here would be the G1 profile rather than anything higher power but YMMV. I already think ~stock turbo lag is pretty bad so I don't want to make it worse. In "gentle canyon cruising" I found that I spent a lot of time around 4-4.5k RPM. I also recommend DIYing labor if you're detail-oriented enough. Costs are high for labor + if you do it yourself you can be your own quality control.
    • GTSBoy is again on the money. My actual advice? Sell the car. (really). For what it's worth as is, you can sidegrade into something much better. If you care about function then this is the actual move. If you want a Skyline to perform, set aside about $100K to do it. This is NOT a typo. You will see right away these are two very different mindsets. Realistically we're talking full restomod for any Skyline still kicking around. Have an honest think about which one you are.. and what you want to do, and how much you want to invest in this (with no return).
×
×
  • Create New...