Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what I mean is, $1000 on a vid card when it is probably something I may upgrade in a few years is a bit pricey...

as it seems anyway, I got the best card I could... no 295s in stock anymore either...

  • Replies 115
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

case = thermaltake armor +

PSU = 1000watt corsair

CPU = i7 920

ram = 6GB Dominator 1600

2 HDD's = Falcon G Skill2 (SSD's)

vid card = EVGA GTX295 Co-Op

mobo = EVGA X58

water cooling gear = blocks for cpu, mobo and vid card... pump, radiator etc

plenty good and plenty of room for later upgrades :D

The only thing there that isn't basically the best of the best is the CPU (overclock ftw) and the Mobo... but I don't feel like spending $700 on 4 way SLI that I'll never use.

With the exception of the case, reads as a nice build especially for O/C

For $1500? Not a lot...

There's some watercooling gear that comes with the case, but like I said, I'm replacing most of it. I think all that will be left is the pump, even though I want to replace that too, just no stock of the swiftech pump... so really, that leaves the built in reservoir.

sooo... what should i be buying?? :D

A computer.

You don't have the budget for a specialist machine for your intended purpose. You could get an older version of one of the workstation cards but in your case I'd get an i7 with 6GB ram so if you do get a workstation card later it will be worth it.

i dunno, say... $1500? Want to get it through my dad's work whilst the tax/rebate thingy is still kicking around

actually, that maybe bump the budget up... it's 30% isn't it?

FYI: Provided your dad's work turnover is less than $2million the tax break is 50% if purch before 31 Dec '09 then reduces to 30% there after till the end of next year. So, if that's any help in bumping up your budget to ~$2K, than it could be feasible for said workstation and with Quadro card.

The other option if your IT litereate you could soft mod a gaming GPU to emulate the equivalent workstation card but afaik there's only a select few cards that have been successful (eg. Nvidia 8800 series).

i7 920

ud3r

6gb gskill 1600

5770 or similar depends what u can get ur hands on

case what ever u want

blue ray combo drive

1tb hdd

1 ssd for OS

done

g5 and g15 for keyboard and mice or something similar

Where would I buy 5970 from in the states that ships internationally? And for a total cost of $700?

http://www.tilatech.com/ is where I've imported stuff from before and they were pretty good, so random that they sell rims now as well. There are a couple of others or you need a third party if you want to purchase from newegg as they don't ship to Australia and don't accept international payments.

What about those no name cases? China Cars?

Made out of the same stuff, possibly similar panels.

Edited by DivHunter

I don't see tilatech.com having ANY video cards, let alone stock of the 5970... So with the fact that it's more expensive, f**king massive, doesn't have many or any watercooling blocks, and that I can't even find one to buy, I'm going to stick to my 295 choice :D

Which by the way, was waiting for me at work along with everything else.

lol @ complaining about no water blocks on a car that has JUST hit the market.

EK will have blocks out in less than a month. Usually does.

There might even be a thread on it @ xtremesystems - sometimes he posts designs and whats coming etc

A US website that one of the guy from work here uses all the time is www.provantage.com Some prices are comparable with Newegg.

I dont entirely agree though with the posts mentioned before about us being ripped off and HEAPS cheaper in the US.

Honestly, please prove me wrong as I wanted to use provantage to get a gfx card but by the time courier costs and the dollar difference is added it is only a $30 saving when i was looking at a 4890.

Plus i was always told with electronics if it is not a huge price difference buy local as it is much easier to organise returns etc. The further away the harder it gets.

Again if i am wrong please let me know as I would love to find some good cheap gfx cards :-)

$30 here, $30 there - buy the time you add it up over an entire system build mate you are looking at probably $200-$300 on a $1500 system.

When newegg etc have some of their pricing deals - you'll see $50-$70 saved on a $400 item at times based on pricing here.

That could virtually put a nice SSD into your case or something that would really offer some good benefit

EDIT: also take into account you are paying single item postage. These guys are bringing in containers which are comparitably speaking are much cheaper again.

So if its $30 AFTER postage, it would be what... $35-$40 - which now brings you closer to $400 on a $1500 system give/take.

Overall that ain't a bad saving and clearly shows businesses here gouging pretty hard.

New release items are worst though - 5970 as the example

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
    • Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔
    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
×
×
  • Create New...