Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Trying to get my RB20det gtst4 r32 to start this morning.

I have never got it running since I bought it.

There is supposed to be nothing wrong with it as far as I know although, we found there was no spark. So first we replaced the ignitor and that seems to have fixed our spark problem but car will still not start.

The car is not firing AT ALL.

Definitely getting fuel, we saw it squirt out the chassis rail lines.

Ecu is spitting code 13 and 43.

Just don't know where to go from here.

We will reset the ecu and see what happens

Please help :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298774-my-freaking-rb20det-wont-start/
Share on other sites

The fuel needs to come out of the injector, not out the chassis rail lines.

Are the injectors working? Can you hear them "ticking" while cranking?

Are you trying to start the engine with a healthy battery? The ECU needs something like 7V to stay "alive".

Do a compression test on the engine.

The meaning of the error codes. 13 = "Engine Temp sensor" - break or short circuit in the sensor system. 43 = "Throttle sensor system" - disconnection or short circuit in throttle sensor system. The errors are persistent, they exist for about 50 starts. So reset the ECU, then immediately check for errors.

First thing I would check are......

Do I have pressure in my fuel lines

Are my injectors getting signal

Is my CAS in the right spot

Is my fuel shit and old and needs replacing

Even if you had half decent fuel and the CAS was a little off it would start but it would run like crap. Does it try and fire at all or do you just keep turning and turning and getting nothing?

First thing I would check are......

Do I have pressure in my fuel lines

Are my injectors getting signal

Is my CAS in the right spot

Is my fuel shit and old and needs replacing

Even if you had half decent fuel and the CAS was a little off it would start but it would run like crap. Does it try and fire at all or do you just keep turning and turning and getting nothing?

Definitely have pressure in the fuel lines.

We listened to the injectors and we could hear them ticking.

We are going to try another CAS tomorrow but have inspected it already and seems ok.

Starting to think maybe something with the fuel system isn't right.

Basically just turns and turns till the cows come home and nothing exciting happens :)

tip.

unplug the ecu from the loom, and then put it back in but this time make sure the plug is sitting all the way into the ecu. screw the 10ml bolt a few times and press both sides of the plug and keep doing this untill its in correctly.

If the injectors are ticking, then the CAS is working (ECU gets a signal from the CAS then calculates when to fire the injectors).

Are the fuel lines on the right way? Also, pull an injector and watch the spray while you are cranking the engine (sit the injector in a glass jar or similar). Engine might well be flooded. Pull the spark plugs and dry them off. Also, try starting with WOT.

The errors you are getting will not prevent the engine from starting.

With the ignition on check for battery power to coils (whilst you are at it check AFM and CAS as well). If you have verified you aren't getting any spark I would focus on the ignition system. It is a process of elimination.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...