Possible M35 Automatic Gearbox Issue

[pixel8r]

Thought I'd start a new thread for this one - apologies if I've posted any of this before. My goldfish memory isn't that great...

This post is nothing to do with the normal behaviour of the gearbox...that much I've managed to live with until now.

Mine has been slowly deteriorating over the last 3 or so months. Not knowing a whole lot about this side of things, I'm not sure exactly where the problem lies. Its definitely mechanical and gearing related, but I'm not sure if its the gearbox or the diff or something in between or...

* If I reverse, then drive forward slowly, it will clunk forwards as if I've driven over something on the road. I've also felt it do a very similar series of clunks like that in quick succession when driving at about 30km/h - after coasting then just resuming the throttle.

* Another symptom is that if I drive at 60km/h then lift my right foot, a second later its like the brakes are being applied...and it slows down much quicker than it should rather than just rolling.

* When I'm in 2nd gear and go to change back to 1st by putting my foot down, it really pulls back and its like the power cuts out for about half a second before clunking/jolting into 1st and then kind of easing into motion again (it doesn't really take off straight away when it hits 1st gear). It used to just have a delay before changing gears, but this feels like its going from 4th to 1st or something like that. Incidently if I was to slam my foot to the floor it usually takes about 3 goes before it finally hits 1st, making it a very ineffective way of overtaking (and quite often dangerous).

Maybe something is wrong with the gearbox...I dont know. The clunking issue definitely feels like something is slipping and then grabbing and then its fine.

I had the gearbox serviced just 3 months ago and it was fine then. The mechanic was an auto transmission specialist and used geniune Nissan oil (the correct one for this trans). So I doubt the oil is burnt or anything like that.

Edited December 3, 2009 by pixel8r

[Jetwreck]

sounds normal to me....lol

I have the same problem as you with the first 2 points + I get a whine on really hot day's if I give it. Have you noticed that the problems only happen when it's really hot?

Have you put another trans cooler on it? How many Km's do you have.

a short time fix is to maybe just drive it through the gears....that's what I do when it's really hot.

[Angus Smart]

Yer i get the same clunks too. so it is kinda normal eh? i thought it may have had something more to do with the mis matched tyres i was running, as i made a mistake for a few days running 55's on the rear and 45's on the front. the other way around it was terrible!

not i have half worn 45's on the rear and brand new 40's on the front.

Craig, howd you go with the bell housing business? i'm still chasing up that number for you for rdg, hes not workin in his shop at the moment however.

[pixel8r]

sounds normal to me....lol

I have the same problem as you with the first 2 points + I get a whine on really hot day's if I give it. Have you noticed that the problems only happen when it's really hot?

Have you put another trans cooler on it? How many Km's do you have.

a short time fix is to maybe just drive it through the gears....that's what I do when it's really hot.

The problem is much worse when its hot. Mine feels like there's always some drag on the engine constantly. It never felt like that when we first bought it. Fuel economy is now at least 1L/100km worse - maybe thats the heat but I used to get better fuel economy doing much the same weekly route in my old s2 stagea.

Its now done 108,000km. It still does the no power thing when changing back to 1st even when cold. Its not a normal gearchange - feels like you jab the brakes hard just before it changes gear...and then it seems to slip a fair bit before taking off...

Just a wild theory I had - is it possible for my tyres to be causing issues with the diff - they are very very noisy and due to the way they have worn, creating sharp ridges on the tread all the way around the tyre, they would cause a lot more friction with the road surface than a normal tyre....is this likely to cause any issue? It wouldn't affect the above gearchange thing but could be contributing to extra fuel usage/drag etc?

[Angus Smart]

they all the same size? have they all worn down to the a similar size?

it can effect it hey. in the slightest way. but maybe over time its done something

[zei20l]

i get the clunk you speak about after coming out of reverse................ i thought it was just mine

[mxfly]

Have you ever had the diff oil changed/checked?

[iamhe77]

Thought I'd start a new thread for this one - apologies if I've posted any of this before. My goldfish memory isn't that great...

This post is nothing to do with the normal behaviour of the gearbox...that much I've managed to live with until now.

Mine has been slowly deteriorating over the last 3 or so months. Not knowing a whole lot about this side of things, I'm not sure exactly where the problem lies. Its definitely mechanical and gearing related, but I'm not sure if its the gearbox or the diff or something in between or...

* If I reverse, then drive forward slowly, it will clunk forwards as if I've driven over something on the road. I've also felt it do a very similar series of clunks like that in quick succession when driving at about 30km/h - after coasting then just resuming the throttle.

* Another symptom is that if I drive at 60km/h then lift my right foot, a second later its like the brakes are being applied...and it slows down much quicker than it should rather than just rolling.

* When I'm in 2nd gear and go to change back to 1st by putting my foot down, it really pulls back and its like the power cuts out for about half a second before clunking/jolting into 1st and then kind of easing into motion again (it doesn't really take off straight away when it hits 1st gear). It used to just have a delay before changing gears, but this feels like its going from 4th to 1st or something like that. Incidently if I was to slam my foot to the floor it usually takes about 3 goes before it finally hits 1st, making it a very ineffective way of overtaking (and quite often dangerous).

Maybe something is wrong with the gearbox...I dont know. The clunking issue definitely feels like something is slipping and then grabbing and then its fine.

I had the gearbox serviced just 3 months ago and it was fine then. The mechanic was an auto transmission specialist and used geniune Nissan oil (the correct one for this trans). So I doubt the oil is burnt or anything like that.

First point - I have something similar, but I think it has more to do with an increased idle (I foolishly cleaned the throttle body)... do you make sure that the car has stopped reversing before putting it in drive? If so, do you wait for it to get in gear before you accelerate? I have found that if you reverse. stop & put it in drive, then feel it get into gear before accelerating, there is no clunking.

Second point - Like an exhaust brake on a truck?

Third point - What do you need to change down into 1st gear for? 1st should really only be used to build up enough torque from a standstill to allow you to shift into second. The only time I can think of that you should be changing from 2nd to 1st is when you are sitting at an intersection or a red light etc (not moving).

Two main things though....

1. Get a transmission cooler on your car. Makes a massive difference to your transmission.

2. I found that the transmission runs much smoother with Nulon 100% synthetic transmission fluid than the Nissan Matic J. Maybe flush out the Matic J and chuck some Nulon in? If you want to stick with the Matic J, just ask Nissan to put their "transmission additive satchel" in your transmission. It should only cost ~$30 and makes a HUUUUGE difference when compared to using just the Matic J.

EDIT: And as Eugene said, maybe put a high quality oil in your diffs? Redline lightweight shockproof is in mine now and has made a difference to idle reversing (no shudder)

Edited December 3, 2009 by iamhe77

[Jetwreck]

Second point - Like an exhaust brake on a truck?

was going to say that....but I thought I might have sounded stupid .....this transmission does tend to drag for a couple of seconds with mine on back off.....gives a nice little burble

[iamhe77]

was going to say that....but I thought I might have sounded stupid .....this transmission does tend to drag for a couple of seconds with mine on back off.....gives a nice little burble

Mine too... but a couple of second after backing of while coasting. Nice deep growl.

[pixel8r]

First point - I have something similar, but I think it has more to do with an increased idle (I foolishly cleaned the throttle body)... do you make sure that the car has stopped reversing before putting it in drive? If so, do you wait for it to get in gear before you accelerate? I have found that if you reverse. stop & put it in drive, then feel it get into gear before accelerating, there is no clunking.

Second point - Like an exhaust brake on a truck?

Third point - What do you need to change down into 1st gear for? 1st should really only be used to build up enough torque from a standstill to allow you to shift into second. The only time I can think of that you should be changing from 2nd to 1st is when you are sitting at an intersection or a red light etc (not moving).

Two main things though....

1. Get a transmission cooler on your car. Makes a massive difference to your transmission.

2. I found that the transmission runs much smoother with Nulon 100% synthetic transmission fluid than the Nissan Matic J. Maybe flush out the Matic J and chuck some Nulon in? If you want to stick with the Matic J, just ask Nissan to put their "transmission additive satchel" in your transmission. It should only cost ~$30 and makes a HUUUUGE difference when compared to using just the Matic J.

EDIT: And as Eugene said, maybe put a high quality oil in your diffs? Redline lightweight shockproof is in mine now and has made a difference to idle reversing (no shudder)

Your increased idle should be fixable by doing the idle air learning procedure -only caveat is the engine MUST be up to correct temp for this to work. Do it after a drive somewhere rather than just going round the block. I found when I cleaned my throttle body it was revving high every time until I tried the idle learning procedure after getting home from work, then its been fine ever since

point 1 - The clunk its doing is if I reverse, then stop, then put in drive, and then start to drive forwards, it will clunk as I move forwards. The gearchanges are usually fine (unless i'm still moving when i put it in reverse/drive).

point 2 - kind of, but it feels a bit too aggressive. maybe just due to it being in 5th - could be normal then.

point 3 - Not sure if it is 1st gear, maybe its 2nd. Either way its when I'm doing say 30-40km/h and stomp my foot to the floor to overtake (not something i do often mind you). In the last stagea this would shove it back to 1st and you'd get a rush of acceleration (had to be careful to have a clear lane ahead of me). In this model, its a waste of time and seems to just hurt the gearbox and go nowhere...

It probably would benefit from a change of diff oil. Hasn't been done and I've owned the car for 30,000km (goodness that went fast). I just wasn't sure if that would relate to the issues I'm having. The front tyres have worn fairly evenly I imagine, no reason for them not to. All 4 tyres are noisy and have formed sharp ridges in the tread - sounds like 4wd tyres or worse.

I will be getting new tyres as soon as I can afford it, and will probably try to change the diff oil after that...

I've just gotten approval for my first home loan (building) and so all of my saved money is going into the deposit...and as per usual, the "extra" that i was hoping to use for tyres etc is now required for the loan. just the beginning i guess...

Thanks for the help guys and sorry for the continual moaning and whinging about the transmission...

[iamhe77]

Thanks Steve. I have done the idle re-learn a number of times over the past week. When I put my mate's TB in my car, the idle dropped straight to 700rpm. I then did a relearn and again it hit 700rpm and sat there. I put my TB in and viola! ~1000rpm

Point 1 - Sounds normal. Sort of two "pushes"? Mine does it (no clunking sound), but feels like it engages drive, then moments later "locks" the gear in (hence the second "push")

I have been in a few different M35's and they all seemed to do this regardless of state of tune.

Point 2 - Again, sounds relatively normal. may be more "aggressive" due to the smaller ID of the stock exhaust/dump setup perhaps?

Point 3 - Should be shifting from 3rd (or 4th) to 2nd if you plant it after pottering along ~30kph. If you do put your foot flat to the floor at very low speeds, the ECU will take a second,

engage the gear and then allow you to take off at full boost. There will always be a delay when planting the foot in these cars (less if you have a shift kit or rebuild)

presumably to offer a bit of protection to the drivetrain... but 3 seconds? I would get some other trans fluid or the Nissan satchel in there... I did notice a decrease in shift

time and smoother shifts from the plain Matic J when I had the satchel installed (Matic J is not a fully synthetic oil). The Nissan satchel added is ~$30, so it won't break the

bank... just gotta find a dealer that will be willing to put it in.

Congrats on getting the "pre-approval" for your loan. I am building at the moment, but is a bit of a pain this time.

[66yostagea]

Whilst mine is an S1 I am using all Nulon oils with their addatives. Also have larger cooler. No probs at 150ks. My Forrester shit its A/T at 115ks.

Cost 3 grand to fix.

If my Stag trannie started to go like you are all saying, I would be of to the best auto trannie service centre in town.

Edited December 4, 2009 by 66yostagea

[pixel8r]

Point 3 - Should be shifting from 3rd (or 4th) to 2nd if you plant it after pottering along ~30kph. If you do put your foot flat to the floor at very low speeds, the ECU will take a second,

engage the gear and then allow you to take off at full boost. There will always be a delay when planting the foot in these cars (less if you have a shift kit or rebuild)

presumably to offer a bit of protection to the drivetrain... but 3 seconds? I would get some other trans fluid or the Nissan satchel in there... I did notice a decrease in shift

time and smoother shifts from the plain Matic J when I had the satchel installed (Matic J is not a fully synthetic oil). The Nissan satchel added is ~$30, so it won't break the

bank... just gotta find a dealer that will be willing to put it in.

Hmmm ok. I remember when i lived in QLD I rang a Nissan dealer and was told they dont even service these cars (if only I'd known then that it was the same gearbox as a 350z). I also tried a couple of Nissan dealers here in SA and they said the same thing. So I might be out of luck there. Will probably have more luck with the Nulon oil next transmission oil change....which will be much sooner than necessary if I cant put up with it that long...

Congrats on getting the "pre-approval" for your loan. I am building at the moment, but is a bit of a pain this time.

Its actually the final approval. Everything's pretty much done now so we'll very soon be past all of the initial stage and hopefully the actual "building" process will start within the next couple of months. Its all new to me but not too bad so far. We've stuck very close to the original plan so as long as I get a reasonably built house at the end of it I'll be happy. Will be nice to see all the colours etc we selected come to reality in the finished product.

[iamhe77]

Hmmm ok. I remember when i lived in QLD I rang a Nissan dealer and was told they dont even service these cars (if only I'd known then that it was the same gearbox as a 350z). I also tried a couple of Nissan dealers here in SA and they said the same thing. So I might be out of luck there. Will probably have more luck with the Nulon oil next transmission oil change....which will be much sooner than necessary if I cant put up with it that long...

Actually, it is the same satchel that all new Nissan's and Nissan's still under warranty have added in Aus.

It was developed in the US and I have no idea what is in it... but you should be able to get any dealer to do a transmission service for ~$275inc GST (including the satchel) as it is not a unique transmission to the JDM market.

As an aside, I have found that the willingness of Nissan Dealerships to service/look at M35's pretty much dictates the quality of mechanic they have.

ie, if they will service you car, they generally will have reasonably cluey mechs.... whereas if they say either "Nope" or "we would just service it as if it was a commodore" would generally symbolise their mechanics lack of expertise with all things Nissan.

[ClassOne]

So I got my nm35 with 45,000 on the clock,

It's now got 70,000.

And in the last few months, when shifting from park to Drive or from reverse to drive, allowing sufficient time for the ecu to do its thing..

It has started clunking when you initially accelerate. ( like tickling the throttle is telling it to wake up, and so it quickly puts it into 1st gear for you)

It's started to give me the shits now, it never use to do it at all, it's just progressively gotten worse over the 2 month period .

Does it when it's cold, does it when it's warm.

Why would this just start to happen?

It apparently had a box service before I purchased it (from a dealer)

Just to comment on point 3 from previous posts.

I know exactly what you mean, if you dont get yourself a throttle controller, the only way around it is to anticipate your overtake, apply a small amount of throttle to get the box to shift into 4th,

( boost gauge will read zero, then only apply 50% throttle .) that will get you into 3rd right in the guts of the torque band and is plenty of power to blast past your Sunday driver

I find if you mash it to the boards it just revs it's bean off dropping back to 2nd, so now it's out of its torque band and all it's doing is making alot of noise so to speak.

[andy65b]

Can you give us a little more info? What model and year?

When did you get the car?

As I am assuming you are talking about a series 1 NM35 (2001-2004), that does sound like really low Km's.

I bought my car in 2008 which was a 2003/3 model ARX with 43k on the clock. At the same time Jetwreck bought a 2002 model ARX with 70k on the clock.

I do suspect your KM's are not right.

Beside that, why did they service the transmission at 45k? The transmission does not require an oil change till 100k.

THen you need to use the right oil. use the wrong oil and your transmission will stuff up.

So I would be thinking 1) you possibly have the wrong oil in the gearbox 2) the transmission has done many more km's than you think and may just be getting old.

[ClassOne]

So I purchased it in march 2012, from Japan through none other then Nagoya motors.. Don't get me started..

Its a 2003/5 nm35.

I can't be sure that they did service the tranny, only going off what they said ( we usually service the box as well bla bla )

I suspect that the KM's are very wrong.

What car needs 2 front wheels bearings and a front BJ replaced at 60,000??

And now it needs a FL CV shaft repaired..

AND the motor has now got a ticking noise going on

(It's not injectors firing)

The car is my wife's car, she doesn't flog it, I don't even flog it ( got an S13 for that)

As you can see I'm not really happy with it, the last thing I need now is a box issue.

[andy65b]

best bet, talk to Jetwreck as he has sorted through these problems for someone at least once before.

mmm.. Nagoya...

Have you changed your aircon filter (in the passenger footwell behind glove box) I pulled one out for someone and it was marked that it was changed 2 years prior at 70k. Only thing was the car was purchased in Oz with 42k 2 years prior.... the plot thickened.

[ClassOne]

Haven't changed that filter, I'll have a look at it after work.

If something is written on it, I can only imagine what it might say.

Cheers for the help man