Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Dear oh dear. Almost got sucked into the, mine is better than yours, debate :D

There's no doubt that the LS1 powered Commodore/Monaro is a reasonable quick beast from the factory. With a few $$$ it can be made to run very quick numbers. Henry, Rob & Matt's cars are three local examples.

I think we should have an RB vs. LS1 challenge!

Challenge #1 - How many laps of Anzac Hwy before receiving a defect

Challenge #2 - Quickest time up EOTH towing a boat

Challenge #3 - Largest number of, 'ful sik bro', comments on one pass of Rundle St (bonus points awarded if you also collect a defect during this challenge)

Challenge #4 - Ahhh.... well you all get the idea. Feel free to add more :D

I agree with all of the above :) .... strap some slicks (and/or nitrous as some of the LS1s) on our cars and we have a different bll game. I'd give any of those LS1s a run on the street on pure street tyres and I know what almost all the results would be.

I know the result... we'd win :cheers: *cough* jaffa with 3 people *cough*

Even with your swanky tyres LOL

:)

Here it is then guys, the one off and highly excellent chance for the Ricers to put away the Rattly Oil Burners once and for all. Its the LS1 Drag Nationals, and interestingly enough one of the event sponsors, and main competitors is Keir Wilson in his R32 GTR. Go figure! Prizemoney is excellent though...so if you are up for it, download an entry form and fill it out!

http://www.ls1dragnationals.com.au

  • 2 weeks later...

Picked up the GTR this week.

Made 348rwkw at 0.7bar, then after a few kays & an oil change, made 420rwkw at 1.3bar.

The car feels very strong.

Mick & co at Tilbrooks have done an excellent job with this current build up.

We will leave the tuning on the conservative side for a while so I can get used to the car (& the crazy gearbox)

then later we might put some better fuel in & crank up the boost a bit more & see what it can do down the 1/4.

Country roads are what this thing is built for, so will be good to get out of the city & stretch it's legs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...