Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How is the steering rack ("weight, effort, pressure", call it what you will...), solenoid triggered? Is it either open or closed, thus light or heavy, or does the ecu duty cycle it to give a linear steering effort change? Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298883-power-steering-rack-solenoid/
Share on other sites

What type of car?

Most car the sensor on the rack is only a sensor for the ecu so it knows to bump the idle up so as the motor dosnt stall from the load of the power steering pump

Interested in both R33 GTS-t and R33 GTR

The idle up is via a pressure switch in the pump high pressure line. The rack itself has a bypass bleed solenoid to vary rack assistance effort.

Interested in both R33 GTS-t and R33 GTR

The idle up is via a pressure switch in the pump high pressure line. The rack itself has a bypass bleed solenoid to vary rack assistance effort.

Ah yeah I know what you are talking about now.

It should be liniar. the ecu (or might be another modul) ajusted the efford compared to the speed the car is doing. E.g. more asisted at low speeds in car parks and less assisted at hight speed on the highway

I am pretty sure the hi-cas ecu in the boot controlls the unit, I am also interested in how it is operated.

My 33 gtst sometimes goes heavy and stays heavy. then next time i start it, it could be normal again.

Im looking at modding it.. possably removing it, would love to know how it is operated!

i am having a problems with my steering aswell feels like its controlled electronically when driving and makes the car viere from left to right slightly, so i could be driving down a straight bit of road and the car will just turn itself to one side slightly and start heading that way then turn back all of a sudden, its freaking annoying.

do u think replacing the hicas ecu will fix this problem?

as the hicas was also playing up, and was wiggling the arse end intermittently, so i removed it. maybe they are all related, and the hicas ecu is responsible.

found the info I was looking for.. in this thread.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...amp;hl=steering

look for the waveforms on post #29..

I haven't gotten any further into replacing the hicas module as mine is working.. after I fixed everything else.

  • 3 years later...

Major thread revival.

So i'm trying to find out what signal the Hicas unit gives the power steering solenoid in an R33 rack.

As the rack isn't actually in an R33 i can't just hook up a scope to the plug and see what its doing.

I need to know the duty cycle and frequency of the output is at say 0km/h and 100km/h. I assume it will be a linear line between those two points, above someone said its a square wave, thats a start.

The above link from heller44 does not work.

I looked in the R33 workshop manual which was no real help. It just stated that you should see approx 6-8V at 0km/h and around 2V? at 100km/h.

No actual duty cycle or frequency data is given in the manual.

What i'm trying to hopefully do is control the solenoid from my Link ECU in my R31. I previously have driven the car with the solenoid completely off and it did feel heavy at a stand still and low speeds.

Any help would be appreciated.

  • Like 1

Sweet, cheers for that mate.

That should be pretty easy to work out the duty cycle from then.

Locked at 123Hz across the board.

At 0km/h if the Solenoid is meant to be getting Approx 4.4 - 6.6V that is a rough 32 - 47% Duty cycle

At 100km/h if the Solenoid is meant to be getting Approx 1.5 - 2.2V that is a rough 11 - 16% Duty cycle.

Calculated on the basis of 14V.

After 100km/h do you know if the duty drops off to 0 eventually or it stays at approx 16% after 100km/h?

Looks like its just a case of doing a linear graph every 10km/h from 0 to 100 using those duty cycle's as the start and finish points.

  • Like 1
  • 6 years later...
On 3/19/2013 at 3:07 AM, kitto said:

Sweet, cheers for that mate.

That should be pretty easy to work out the duty cycle from then.

Locked at 123Hz across the board.

At 0km/h if the Solenoid is meant to be getting Approx 4.4 - 6.6V that is a rough 32 - 47% Duty cycle

At 100km/h if the Solenoid is meant to be getting Approx 1.5 - 2.2V that is a rough 11 - 16% Duty cycle.

Calculated on the basis of 14V.

After 100km/h do you know if the duty drops off to 0 eventually or it stays at approx 16% after 100km/h?

Looks like its just a case of doing a linear graph every 10km/h from 0 to 100 using those duty cycle's as the start and finish points.

Sorry to revive an old thread mate, wanted to know if there is a way to achieve this with some kind of dc converter? I got one of these racks with the solenoid in it but my r33 didn't have the solenoid type rack or wiring for it to begin with.

Edited by nicostar

What do you mean "DC converter"?

If you just want a fixed voltage at the rack, you could just blow away the extra volts with a suitably sized (ohms and watts) resistor.

If you wanted to go to the effort of using more electronics to achieve the same goal and waste a little less electricity, you could certainly put a DC-DC converter on there.

Or, you could build an Arduino to run a PWM output to an SSR. Choose a suitable frequency for the PWM (maybe 100Hz) and just punch out the pulsewidths required to get the voltage you want. It's pretty clear that it wants somewhere around 6V to get max assist (at low speeds) and ~2V to get minimum assist at higher speeds. If you went to a little more effort you could connect an Arduino input to the VSS and give it full variable assist to the same extent that the HICAS CU would.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 95 is just a scam outright. 98 is the real "premium" with all the best detergents and other additive packages, and at least historically, used to be more dense also. 95 is just 91 bargain basement shit with a little extra octane rating. Of course, there's 91 and there's 91 also. I always (back in the 90s early 2000s) refused to put fuel in from supermarket related fuel chains on the basis that it was nasty half arsed shit imported from Indonesia. Nowadays, I suspect that there is little difference between the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the "bargain" chains and the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the big brands, given that most of it is coming from the same SEAsian refineries. Anyway - if there's still anything to that logic, then it would apply to 95 also. 98 is only made in decent refineries and, as I said, is usually the "premium" fuel, both in terms of octane rating and "use this because it's good for your engine because it's got the unicorn jizz in it!".
    • Yeah since those first 2 replies I actually went and put some 98 in it and tbf it's already doing much better than the 95 (which is weird and makes my inner tinfoil hat wearer think the 95 was a crap batch), getting 8ish around town. Again, wonder if it takes a while to stabilize if the fuel is changed a couple of times. I swear cars used to just either run "well" or "s**t* in my 20s, none of this fuel optimisation business haha 
    • Any number of different ways. Have the coils draw sufficient current to provide contact wetting. Use different contacts in the switch, either by material or design, better suited to the low current drawn by a relay coil. Etc.
    • Hmm, how does the R34 manage to have headlight relays then without getting excessive carbon buildup on the headlight switch contacts?
    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
×
×
  • Create New...