Jump to content
SAU Community

Clean Vs Sporty.  

91 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas,

I've been thinking about a new look for my jet-black R33 GTR. I was thinking of removing all badges and stickers off my car and just keeping it nice and clean.

To be honest, I've been a bit of a 'sticker whore' in recent years, e.g. Tuning shop's stickers on the top of the front windscreen, side windows and rear window plus a few Nismo and HKS stickers etc in a few places (guilty as charged)...plus, on one occasion I even had Nismo side strip decals on the sides of my car too...

However, I think I've had enough of this and like my car to look clean just not too sure if have it badgeless and stickerless is a bit to extreme in pursuit of the JDM racer look. What do you guys think?

CLEAN JDM SPEC (will also remove front/rear GTR badge too:

R33GTR.6speed.jpg

OR the RACE SPEC (with as much stickers if not more)?

0608turp_01z%20nissan_skyline_gtr_r33%20right_front_view.jpg

.

Edited by Spunky Munky
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299005-the-clean-vs-the-sporty-looking/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

race spec would attract HEAPS of attention.

unless your car is 100% legal itd be nothing but harassment by the boys in blue.

that said i love the race spec look, it'd be good on a car that does occasional track work, but for a street car however, it'd be a little over the top.

clean look it is...

i rekon ditch the spoiler, leave the stock body kit alone, nice low ride height and some simple rims like Te37s in the bottom pic, or Dirfteks. meshies/busy rims look horrid on R33s IMO...

Edited by turbo x-trail

Keep the 2 GTR badges, or at least the rear badge and the 1970's GTR badge on the front (looks beautiful!) then get rid of everything else. And if ou want to go a little further, shave the side GT badges, aerial, rear wiper blade, and anything else thats in the way. Add maybe 1 or 2 club stickers, and you'll be good to go! Like Cam said, through on some nice simple rims (not Drifteks, too heavy and shit. LMGT4 instead) and you'll be laughing!

Word.

yep. As you guys probably already know from another thread of mine, I'm trying to source this 1970's badge. After I decide with what look I will adopt, the next step is to go crazy on performance.

Why the hell would you want to get rid of the GTR badges :)

Just keep it looking clean. A little tiny sticker here or there isn't a sin. But don't do the whole shopping list door thing.

:huh: Damn go all the way and return it to stock *****

I have seen a few jdm racer cars. No badges or stickers. Looks tough as...you guys agree? A gtr is recognizable anywhere. I just debadged my gtr. Took everything off. Thinking of debadging the side gt badges too now.

Hahaha. Did you google that or grab it off some post I've posted sometime ago. Seriously, I love that white GTR look. I wish mine look like that but everyone seems to be against the "wish list" look. Actually there isnt THAT many stickers on the white one too. Anyway still thinking about it but probably wouldnt be doing it. Hahaha

Ive had my 33 with some pretty full on graphics on it and never had any police attention caused by the look of it, this is with vented bonnet after market wheels lowered, , sparco race seat, 3in exhaust (not a quiet one either) all of which are things that can get noticed... Im not exactly low profile driver either, definitely not a sleeper look...

so maybe its something else that is attracting the cops to other modified car drivers...

I reckon go for what you like best...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong, but more than a few times I've heard of people running into issues where their injector characterization isn't quite right and that approach works for that specific configuration but once they switch over to a new set they discover a whole bunch of stuff wasn't set up correctly. It's slightly more annoying to reverse engineer the OEM MAF transfer function but you already have the sensor wired up to the factory harness so keeping it around for a few weeks more while you figure out the tune is easy enough. I've seen GM also use a combination of both MAF + MAP in their ECUs before, MAF is for steady state and a calculation of the cylinder VE to correct the base VE table, then in transients it uses that calculated VE + raw MAP to determine cylinder filling somehow.
    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
×
×
  • Create New...