Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I have a 33 gtst skyline in which has just had the engine put back into it. I replaced the clutch, had the flywheel machined and replaced the spigot bush and throwout bearing. I double and triple checked everything, or so I thought?

Once I had the engine started and running, Whenever the clutch was depressed I would get a horrible whine which I believe is a distinct throwout bearing noise. I had greased the imput shaft and made sure it was sliding fine before the engine went back in and bolted up. I went for a few drives and it seemed to go away at times, and sometimes the noise was there. But on the way back home I felt a vibe through the pedal and only had half my clutch distance in the pedal. For this reason I couldnt get any gears and the noise had returned. I pushed the car back home and parked up for the night.

I couldnt get gears when the car is off or on, I still only had half my pedal, and cant select gears without using the clutch either. The fork on the slave cylinder seems to be pressed right against the bellhousing, as in, the slave rod is pushed right out, which I dont think it should be with no pressure on the clutch pedal.

Now over the past week ive been doing a little reading and ive come across a few possible issues including the obvious things like master cyl and slave cyl and things like broken pivot point, slave rod too short etc. I decided my car was nearing 16 years old now so I would treat it with a new master and slave combo and hopefully in the process it might fix my issue. Apparently not....

Now with the new slave and master on the car, I can not for the life of me get any feeling or resistance in my clutch pedal. I can however select gears again without using the clutch. But Ive tried adjusting the pedal right out, I even turned up a longer slave rod.....no feeling in the clutch.....So the obvious thing was to bleed it again, and again and again. That done and 500ml or more of brake fluid used, nothing has changed. Now ive just come across a bleeding guide in one of the forums which I will try to follow step by step tomorrow to see if that makes any difference which im hoping it will. Im also hoping that was my problem all along, which I have a sneaky idea that it wont be :)

Im thinking maybe I might have to drop the box out and inspect further, possibly a broken fork pivot point (BUT THE FORK MOVEMENT SEEMS FINE!) im so stumped its not funny and would love any help anyone has to offer. I will continue to search forums and try to find something in the meantime, cheers in advance

Jamie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299047-strange-strange-clutch-issue/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...