Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just knocked my rear view mirror when cleaning the interior and it went loose and the little switch at the bottom to change the angle wasnt working anymore.

So, i unscrewed the screw at the back and took the mrror off in hope to find a simple fix but didnt have any luck.

Now i cant even see what the screw threads into? :s anyone else had this problem and or know where it goes or how they work?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299094-r33-rear-view-mirror/
Share on other sites

Found the solution....................Buy another one lol

Theyre a completely sealed unit so couldnt really work out what part had broken but i broke it even more trying t find out so got a new one.

Theyre only $50 (if u haggle)

  • 5 years later...

Found the solution....................Buy another one lol

Theyre a completely sealed unit so couldnt really work out what part had broken but i broke it even more trying t find out so got a new one.

Theyre only $50 (if u haggle)

You're right it's a completely sealed unit. Threw mine in the oven for about 3 minutes at 100 deg C. Makes the plastic a bit more pliable. Pull the plastic out along the long sides and you should be able to fit a flathead into the gap.

Pop the glass out and you'll see that the tightening screw is connected to a bracket that adjusts how hard it clamps down on the 'ball' part of the mirror. If you fully undo the screw I reckon it'd be very difficult to screw it back in without taking it apart.

Easy fix. Took me about 10 minutes.

To pull mirror out of the car just yank it out (has a breakaway mechanism), if anyone is looking for this information in the future.

For my R33 just gave it a yank it came down

My rear view mirrow was a little wobbly, previously owner had just stuck a piece of rubber between the windscreen and it, so without rubber piece it was unusable

When I pulled it the whole thing came down as 2 of the 3 screws had come out

Pull it apart then screwed the attachment back into the clip

Rescrewed back to the roof with all 3 screws

Put cover back on

Good as new

Edited by shakows
  • 1 month later...

You're right it's a completely sealed unit. Threw mine in the oven for about 3 minutes at 100 deg C. Makes the plastic a bit more pliable. Pull the plastic out along the long sides and you should be able to fit a flathead into the gap.

Pop the glass out and you'll see that the tightening screw is connected to a bracket that adjusts how hard it clamps down on the 'ball' part of the mirror. If you fully undo the screw I reckon it'd be very difficult to screw it back in without taking it apart.

Easy fix. Took me about 10 minutes.

To pull mirror out of the car just yank it out (has a breakaway mechanism), if anyone is looking for this information in the future.

I was being an idiot earlier today and took the little screw out, which stuffed the mirror mount.

So I've just tried this. The plastic was still really hard after 3 minutes of baking, tried the screwdriver trick, bent too much and broke the glass.

Grrr at myself :angry:

  • 2 years later...

Sorry to reply to such an old topic - but I thought a few pictures of the mirror, etc might be in order for ones (like I was) not wanting to break anything to get the mirror out... ? ??‍♂️

 

Edit: I should point out I pulled it off from the breakaway clip and then when wanting to install it again, I screwed the big screw back in-between the circlip first and then screwed the three smaller screws into the roof back in.

IMG_20180326_200735.jpg

IMG_20180326_202032.jpg

IMG_20180326_202653.jpg

IMG_20180326_202713.jpg

IMG_20180326_202717.jpg

Edited by jamesnorman93
How I uninstalled and reinstalled it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
    • I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
    • Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
×
×
  • Create New...