Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

last night i had a few ppl in the car and was accellerating when it began slowing down no matter what i did. The turbo is spooling up, there are no warning lights and oil pressure is good. The car sounds like a V8 with a lumpy cam, is really hard to start and causes the lighting to slightly pulse. Everything else is working ok. The car is a 95 r33 gts25t auto. suggestions anyone?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29926-r33-running-like-a-lumpy-v8/
Share on other sites

Sounds electrical, if you don't know how to check them go to someone that does. You will need to check the impedence on the coil packs and you require a metre to do that...

Its not as easy as removing one at a time to check like on a non-coil system, however it can be done but if you zap yourself, then all I can say is that you have been warned, safest bet go see an auto electrician.

I would not do this if you DON'T know what your doing, the post below describes how to do it, however make sure you DO NOT have the leads near anything otherwise you WILL cook your ECU, ignition and maybe some hair!!!

  PJ said:
How do i check them?
You'll need to remove the cover between the 2 rocker covers. This will expose the coil packs on the spark plugs.

With the engine idling, disconnect the plug from each coil pack in turn. The one where there is no difference to the running of the engine is the faulty one.

Move it to another cylinder, then repeat the process. If it occurs on the same coilpack, it's the coilpack that is faulty. If it still occurs at the same cylinder, it's either the spark plug, or the ignitor module.

It turns out after pulling it all apart that all but 1 spark plug was completely crispied, ie no arm and no head. Got 6 new NGK iridium spark plugs, but a bit cracked off one of the plug when i was putting it in. Its still running a bit weird so im thinking that the fuel pump is really on its last legs, will get a pressure guage on and see whats going on.

I wouldn't be putting in a plug that has a bit cracked off it. If its the part that is inside the engine then you can damage the bore, piston, head, valves and most definately the turbos ceramic exhaust wheel on its way out.

I've always ran coppers as they are cheap :cheers: and do the job just as well with a little more reliability at high boosts.

I run BCPR6EY. They are gapped to .8mm from factory and are a V-groove plug. The BCPR6ES are the same plugs but with a standard electrode.

I have noticed the standard's arn't as good so if you do decide to get some coppers get the V grooves.

If the BCPR6EY arn't available get the BCPR6EY-11 which are gapped to 1.1mm, gap them down to .8mm your self. The plugs are $3.50 each.

Be very carefull your car isn't running lean. I had a scare once when I disconnected my inline Bosh910 pump. I gunned the car and noticed it did feel like it picked up better but the temp guage started to go upwards?!?! WTF I thought I then heard pinging in third gear which was rather bad. I pulled over and the car sounded like it was running rough not quite running on 5 but almost there. I took off easy drove it home, the roughness smoothed out and the engine turned out ok. Connected the pump back up and all was ok and my foot was flat to the board again. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn鈥檛 have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
  • Create New...