Jump to content
SAU Community

My Dr30 Rs Coupe


Recommended Posts

I know what you're thinking, D-limo has found yet another shitbox that will never make it to rwc lol. Though the L28 was cool it needed work in my eyes and was never going to give the feeling of an fj20t. I had even considered dropping an fj into the 210. Though the car is clean enough, such a venture is not very cost effective.

So I Found this gem in June last year.. Checked it out in person and made an offer but was told it had been sold.. Fast forward to now and I took some advice to try and find a dr30 already in the country instead of relying on luck of finding a decent example in japan cheap..

I remembered that the owner of the coupe had a brother with and RS-X sedan, sent an email, bros sedan was sold but he still had the coupe and had been collecting parts to get it back on the road!

It has the rare Black interior including dash and plastics, 95k on the clock, included seperate was a brand new garrett T04 komatsu excavator turbo, GT-R intercooler, NOS badges, it is very rust free and quite original for a dr30. Still has standard exhaust.

DSC00010.jpg

DSC00008.jpg

DSC00005.jpg

Plan is to get it road going as soon as the 210 is sold.

Stage 1 will probs be paint in gunmetal over black twin tone,

Stage 2 A power upgarde inluding a Holset HX35 500hp twin scroll turbo, exhaust with truck muffler. GT-R cooler, sheepdog BOV etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Received some good info on paint. Apparently 4 different shades of silver/grey with the same code. Grey metallic is the sharknosed car, and the early ones also had the deep deep metallic blue bottom.

Exact color coding I want. Should I paint the bumpstrips?????

20041111image921011-2-1.jpg

Only concerning rust.

IMG_3646.jpg

IMG_3656.jpg

IMG_3653.jpg

Bits to go on at some stage.

IMG_3679.jpg

IMG_3684.jpg

In need of a mint R30 stone tray.

IMG_3673.jpg

Under splitter that I'm very fond of. Name made me lol

IMG_3671.jpg

Edited by D-limo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's an S1 Jarryd, 81/82 model.

When you decide to sell it, give me a call, parts are always handy to have.

Your old DR is progressing steadily, got heaps of pics on progress and will start up a new thread when I find the cable to download them off the memory card.

I'm waiting on bits from Fantasy Performance, like bigger turbo, O'ring fuel rail for 770cc injectors, V band dump pipe adaptor, and getting some bits made here in NSW to go with my HKS Hi Mount and 41mm TIAL ext wastegate.

I'm going with a straight through exhaust, firstly through a 3" hot dog, then straight out the left side in front of rear wheel. Ext wastegate is also venting to atmosphere along with huge type 3 Turbosmart BOV. Should make heaps of fun noises on the track.

Cheers, D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey D, It was complied in 06. Some stage there after it was fitted with whiteline swaybars and lovells springs front and rear. Should keep me occupied until power mods progress.

Really wish I kept the purple car, could have afforded both, just timing I guess. I am glad its getting knowledge and $$ thrown at it. exhaust sounds like it will be wild. Get those pics happening :)

Exhaust when I get around to it will be 3in over the diff, no cat with a truck muffler if one will fit.

Edited by D-limo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

DSC00010.jpg

DSC00008.jpg

DSC00005.jpg

Plan is to get it road going as soon as the 210 is sold.

Stage 1 will probs be paint in gunmetal over black twin tone,

Stage 2 A power upgarde inluding a Holset HX35 500hp twin scroll turbo, exhaust with truck muffler. GT-R cooler, sheepdog BOV etc.

What do you call a "near perfect stone guard" and where you getting your Holset from?

I have an Holset HE40 fully reco'ed you can have cheap, but it needs an wastegate actuator, as the one supplied doesn't fit.

Cheers, D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey D, It was complied in 06. Some stage there after it was fitted with whiteline swaybars and lovells springs front and rear. Should keep me occupied until power mods progress.

Really wish I kept the purple car, could have afforded both, just timing I guess. I am glad its getting knowledge and $$ thrown at it. exhaust sounds like it will be wild. Get those pics happening :down:

Exhaust when I get around to it will be 3in over the diff, no cat with a truck muffler if one will fit.

The purple car is very likely to end up black & red, much the same as the Advan car in Japan. As I have to paint the bonnet, o/s/f guard and drivers door, I figure I might as well do the n/s/f guard & passenger side door as well. If we cant get a good match to the existing purple, it's going to be black.

Cheers, D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What do you call a "near perfect stone guard" and where you getting your Holset from?

I have an Holset HE40 fully reco'ed you can have cheap, but it needs an wastegate actuator, as the one supplied doesn't fit.

Cheers, D

I've never heard of an he40, he35 I have however.. do you have pics or specs?

I was going to try hunt down a 2nd hand ex Iveco van hx35 in Aus and have it rebuilt.. New ebay ones going for $500 and under seem dodgey as I've heard there are chinese copies being manufactured.

Do you have a spare stoneguard? Also keeping an eye out for a mint lower chrome grill trim as mine is slightly bent in the middle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never heard of an he40, he35 I have however.. do you have pics or specs?

I was going to try hunt down a 2nd hand ex Iveco van hx35 in Aus and have it rebuilt.. New ebay ones going for $500 and under seem dodgey as I've heard there are chinese copies being manufactured.

Do you have a spare stoneguard? Also keeping an eye out for a mint lower chrome grill trim as mine is slightly bent in the middle.

im not even going to bother to correct the numbers, But thanks a lot dennis, ill tell the guy who wanted it not to bother anymore

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And can anyone confirm the brightwork trim on the tail lights is metal, before I attack them with autosol.

pretty sure they are plastics...

have you tried brasso or anything similar?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Didn't mean to step on anyones toes :rofl: Not particulaly fussed if you still want it go for it stageformer.

Onto more pressing issues, is this going to be tricky to rectify before paint?

IMG_3707.jpg

2 bolts. you can replace it with an aussie delivered 30, some are the same

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Didn't mean to step on anyones toes >_< Not particulaly fussed if you still want it go for it stageformer.

Onto more pressing issues, is this going to be tricky to rectify before paint?

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/Drift_Limo/IMG_3707.jpg

2 bolts. you can replace it with an aussie delivered 30, some are the same

Yup just go grab an Aussie spec one from a wreckers. I had to do the same after my old man bent my mint original one while I had it off.

Edited by DR JOSH
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im driving up for xmas, can bring you a good grille if you like. (chrome trim intact)

I do have another stone guard, but its bent and shit... it will be a challenge finding one in good nic, i suggest trying to re-shape the existing one you have and re-paint etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chrome trim does appear to be plastic. And is missing some chrome. Might hunt down some series 2 lights at a later date, prefer earlier versions over iron mask ones.. Thats assuming the Iron mask is aka series 3? :)

Might start a new thread with some paint/body queries after its on the road.

How good is your chrome trim mag86? Mines good, just a bit tweaked and sort of makes the bumper look out of whack :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
Received some good info on paint. Apparently 4 different shades of silver/grey with the same code. Grey metallic is the sharknosed car, and the early ones also had the deep deep metallic blue bottom.

Exact color coding I want. Should I paint the bumpstrips?????

20041111image921011-2-1.jpg

Only concerning rust.

IMG_3646.jpg

IMG_3656.jpg

IMG_3653.jpg

Bits to go on at some stage.

IMG_3679.jpg

IMG_3684.jpg

In need of a mint R30 stone tray.

IMG_3673.jpg

Under splitter that I'm very fond of. Name made me lol

IMG_3671.jpg

Is this car AND the Trading Post car the same, or do you now have two???

Cheers, D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
    • Is the RB26 actually that far off the mark? Honestly from where I'm sitting a VR38DETT is not actually that much more advanced than the RB26. Yes, there is a scavenge pump on the VR38, it's smarter in a number of ways but it's not actually jumping out to me as alien technology. Something like a B58 or V35A-FTS on the other hand has so many surprising little design features that add up to be something that just isn't comparable. 
×
×
  • Create New...