Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

just wanted to say a huge thank you to you all for the information already given...... its amazing !!!

The second part of this is obviousely gearbox selection, I've often wondered why we had two feet, and have come to the conclusion its to race auto !!!!

I've seen some info about electronic controlled auto, is this for real? can you shift without taking your hands off the steering wheel?????

again, any advice info etc etc will be so appreciated.

best regards

nige

OK been mushing the gray matter up top and crunching some numbers around....... well SolidWorks has anyway.

I seem to arrive at a weight figure closer to 1800kg plus a bit more for safety, so my first estimates were a little off the mark.... oooooppppsssss !!!!!

A bit releived to say the least, but on the bright side the overall weight will be better to drive and handle, and also pwr/wgt ratio will be more acceptable....

thanks again for all your advice.....

nige :P

im with bubba, RB2634 with big huffer GT40 or HKS T51

get the head from here or other site, and see spoolimports.com or ripsracing.com both big RB30 ppl obviously stroked out to rips RB33 or spool for RB34

gearbox for an auto get a holden VL auto and pimp it out or as someone said an R34 box and pimp it out

Dan

VL commodore auto is actually a good idea.. i remember reading an article i think it was perth street car about the Jatco trans rebuild. They reckon up to like 1000hp it can handle.

Yeah and heaps of people can build the Jatco boxes nice and strong.

Yak, the auto's in R34's (and in my Stagea, except it's 4WD) are tiptronic and have buttons on the steering wheel to shift.

The ATESSA (4WD) setup from an R32 GTR runs no preload to the front diff (which is in the sump) so it is as simple as pulling a fuse or putting a switch in to turn it off. It is essentially RWD unless it senses wheelspin.. there are a LOT of sensors that would need transplanting though (speed sensors on each wheel, G sensors from in the cabin etc), for someone such as yourself it would be doable but by no means an easy feat.

Hell.. if it was me I'd be going with an RB26/30, GT35R turbo, series 2 Stag auto 4wd box with 32GTR ATESSA setup!

Hi,

I'm a skyline driver and love them heaps. But u can not deny the power, torque, reliability, displacement of the 2jz tt out of a Toyota supra/chaser/soarer/mark ii. They can produce 500hp with stock internals.

Anyhow, as I said I'm a skyline man. But u r after a race car engine and that is my opinion.

Some series' of racing did use the VHs and VKs, but most other series' used VGs and VQs.

Nismo VQ30DETT puts out the same power as the VR38DETT >_<

Remember guys he isnt moving 1400kg of street car, he said atleast 1800 and could be more...he needs torque.

VQ30DET produces as much power and more torque than an RB26DETT...so get a bigger VQ block, DE-K heads, twin turbo's and a Z32 style twin throttle body setup...that would eat ANY RB powered vehicle.

Otherwise, V8 FTW. Go for a VK since theyre lighter than the VHs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...