Jump to content
SAU Community

Exhaust Smoking..


Recommended Posts

black smoke is usually the car running rich, so hardly think it's blocked injectors

i'm no mechanic, but i'd start with the basic ...MAF, Timing, CAS

also check the spark plugs to identify any problems in any cylinders. a misfire in 1 cyl in a v6 is hardly noticable

could be a very slight seepage of engine oil to one spark plug causing weak sparking or unburnt fuel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply guys. The car is gone, traded it a few months back. I do miss having a Skyline, but certainly miss my old R33 much more than I miss the V35. The R33 was one sweet machine and I regret ever letting that one go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BTW, there are 4 O2 sensor in our car. 2 before the cat, and 2 after. So which one did you change? Have you check your spark plugs? By looking at the plugs, you can tell what's happening to the combustion chamber. The tip should be clean with some grey deposit around the electrode. Search the web for other tell tail sign of problem in the chamber.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 12 years later...

Hi All. Im new Here. Just looking and do some digging’s on forums and I found this topic. Just want to ask if this problem has been sorted out. It’s looks like it have the same problems like my Elgrand E51 VQ35DE
Anybody have sort this problem out ?My VQ35 has same problems. Black smoke, no check engine lights, running rich high fuel consumption,looks like less power and starts and runs ok.
Thanks for anybody who can help me out. 

  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Greg82 said:

I found the same problems there is no answer

Of course there's no answer. How can there be an answer on the internet for the specific problem that your car has. Your car will have one of the problems you find on the 'net. It will then be up to you to work out which one it actually is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, Greg82 said:

Yes I did and always wen I found the same problems there is no answer just guessing and like here was the car sold. 

As above the low hanging fruit would most likely be afm, then maybe o2 sensors, sometimes if they 02s are just starting to go it might feel like the lost power kicks back sometimes  when accelerating, is it high ks? Get any better or worse as it warms up? 

VQ35 Elgrands mow gas at the best of times, also prone to chain issues so if ks are getting up pay to check how far the tensioner is out will give an idea if stretch is a becoming problem, I didn't read the whole thread so may have missed something from previous comments

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
×
×
  • Create New...