Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

ok so heres what i got,

r33 s2 spec m

K+N pod, (in podbox and it gets cool air)

HDI FMIC

Kakimoto exhaust turbo back

Boost controller

Alloy radiator with gates hoses

brass button clutch

nismo 2way lsd

strenghtned gearbox

on 12psi it made 203rwkw on JAZMAC's dyno.

i just purchased a r34 turbo (op6) and its just been hi-flowed and rated at 270 -280rwkw with supporting mods,

im curious as to wat mods i might need for safety aswell as the power..

Im thinkin

ECU

Fuel pump - (bosch 044) :)

Injectors

Dyno - (final tune)

just wondering which injectors, ecu to go for, and have i missed any other parts out that i may need?..

cheers for the help.!

brent :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299398-need-help-with-next-mods-ecu/
Share on other sites

usual stuff you've listed.

AFM (depennding on ECU) - If PFC, Z32

ECU/Tune - PowerFC or ViPec seems the most common

Injectors - 550cc

Fuel pump - Bosch

Although don't get hung up on a power figure, more likely you'll make 260rwkw like most others

factory coils in good conditon will be fine for upto 350-400rwkw.

Infact the whole Nissan OEM system for RB26 & 26 is good for that (except R34's)

but sadly, 10-15 years, most are not in good condition.

Ahhh cheers for the info guys, Yeah i aint really fussed on the dyno figure at the end, just want it to be reliable and a gd safe tune.

We all no about the pfc, but vipec?? might have to look into these. (oh and my ecu has had wires cut on it but still has speed limiter etc) :S

yea mate i would go with:

-Power FC (D Jetro if you can to run MAP sensor and not dumb AFMs) or Haltech E11V2 if you are richie rich

-555cc or bigger injectors (remember that the bigger the injector the harder the idle quality is to control)

-Splitfires just to be sure...as mentioned std ones are cool but most in poo cond' and they have to deal with australian heat

- as for fuel pump i would go the bosch or a walbro

-not needed but for making the most out of your injectors get an adj' fuel reg (SARD my choice)

-dump pipe and high flow cat

-got the turbo sorted looks like but something like a GT-RS or many things from trust, HKS, Garrett etc but GT-RS has good response and is usable with std manifold

-as for tuners i went to a big name tuner in sydney because of the name and the fact they had the "worlds fastest WRX" and got a microtech fitted and tuned on my RB20...only to spend thousands and have it return with the ECU floating around under the passenger seat unbolted and driving like a cop and only 168kW atw at 18psi!!! took it to Mark at DAT Performance on the Central Coast and by playing with it for 20mins he got 182kW at 14psi!!! took it for a full tune and got 212kW @ 14psi...the previous workshop had the base map on it and near nothing else....now I take all my stuff to him including my RB25 swap.

Not that you live in sydney but just points out that you really have to pick carefully with tuners....someone who knows what they are doing but is also ethical.

Hope this helps

Regards,

Jono

ahh cheers heaps jono,

yeah i got full zorst with no cat.

i heard somethin bout s15 injectors being suitable for this they are somethin like 480cc, any1 else heard anything about em,

yeah ill get some splitfires to be safe as ya said, its just hard tryin to find an ecu that wont brake bank, but might aswell just do it properly the first time i guess ey.

but as you said it really comes down to tuner alot aswell, i was gonna get jazmac to tune it and get it running, cause he does a good job and is fairly cheap, but if he cant or hes to busy ill just book it in with willal, we all no how good they are.. and nice bunch of blokes too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks. 
    • I've always approached this as, price is comparable between low temp and high temp fluid. Just put in the high temp fluid. I've not going to lose any sleep thinking about could I have saved $20 on brake fluid that is going to live in the car over the next 2 to 3 years. 
    • Nah, the creases were pretty large, and the sheet metal is pretty thin and hard to work out, time alone is in the hours to fix, and would probably have more bog than I would be happy with In other, more happy news, I gave MX5 Mania a call and they have a few clean boots available for $400 a peice, I've contacted Fineline and given them their contact details, I'm a idiot for not thinking of them sooner
    • That really depends on how hot the brakes get and how much of any heat is transferred into the fluid. That really makes it at least a vehicle specific question, and more than like a specific vehicle specific question, depending on what brakes (ie stock, bigger rotors, different calipers) or even what pads are on it. And then there's the question of cooling air. Is there plenty stock? Is there no special cooling arrangements stock? Has some/more been added? In other words, I think you have to do the experiment to obtain the data. And if you;re worried - tie on some ducting?
    • In all the track days I've done over the past few months I've only had 1 issue with braking and thats with my current EBC pads (can't remember the colour, but they're not a track pad). I don't *think* I have had issues with brake fluid getting too hot, my understanding is that when that happens you will have quite noticeable brake loss - which I haven't had.  I'm using just regular ol' Penrite Super DOT4 fluid. I use this fluid in everything and my cars always seem to stop so I see no reason to change, except ... for the 335i. I need to do a fluid flush and was thinking about my fluid of choice and wondering if I should consider using something more high temp? Its not a super fast car by any standards but I'd hate to do a flush and then find myself with no brakes when I get. to Wakefield.  I guess, my question can be summed up as "How fast do you need to be driving to need higher temp brake fluid?"  I remember high temp fluid was considered a must have back in the day when I had my GTR. 
×
×
  • Create New...