Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have D1R's on my car and am thinking of selling the front 18x9s and putting the rear 18x10 +22 wheels on the front and then going for a new pair for the rear in a wider offset.

My question is, will i have any issues running 18x10 +22's on the front of my car? Im not worried about tires rubbing guards or any of that, im wondering whether i will have any problems with the inside of the wheel rubbing anything like my steering arms etc...

If you have an R33 GTST with 10inch fronts please advise!

Much appreciated.

Dean

what are the offset on the 9" you're taking off the front?

get under the car and check their current internal clearance then use the wheel offset calc to work out how much further in the 18x10 wheel's inside face should sit. this is obviously ignoring what is going on with the outer face and guard, and will really only give you a basic idea of whether it will work or not.

or even better.... seeing as tho you already have the 18x10 on the rear, why wouldnt you just trial fit and see how it goes...?

Yeah ill be trial fitting them on one of these days.

Well im running 3 or 3.5 degrees negative camber on the front plus i will have stretched 235/40's on the 10s... so i think the very top of the wheel will be sitting at pretty much the same spot it is now with the non stretched 235s on the 18x9s +15 offset.

Last time i move a topic of yours to the correct area.

5th time in as many months.

If you cannot take the time to post the thread in the correct section, it will be locked and posting rights removed.

Creating work for Admin because you 'cbfd' is not a good reason either.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

... putting the rear 18x10 +22 wheels on the front ...

My question is, will i have any issues ...

or even better.... seeing as tho you already have the 18x10 on the rear, why wouldnt you just trial fit and see how it goes...?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some sense has prevailed! What kind of idiot spends money on intake, heads, and cams for a N/A motor in 2025? Lol. What maroons. Source:I am King Maroon.
    • So, cams are not getting installed......yet  Had a good chat with MX5 Mania about intakes, they recommend not to get ITB's, they recommend a plenum style for the NC So, one of these puppies is being ordered, with a larger TB to suit, when it arrives from the US the car will go in for the cams and intake I'm also getting a fancy rear box bit for the air filter box which will suit the new TB size
    • Clamp meter is pointless. Unless you're trying to keep average current under a set value for some weird reason (maybe you undersized your wiring?), then you'll get no useful info. What you're really trying to target is the flow of fuel coming back to the tank. You want some, but not a lot. You also want to make sure fuel pressure remains stable.   So, fuel pressure gauge, and fuel flow gauge. Set it up from that.
    • Aside from the fact it is likely fuel related if it is black, the symptoms otherwise sound like worn valve stem seals. Oil gets past the worn seals when the engine is off and burns when the engine starts. If it happens on deceleration while driving (puffs of white smoke) that is another valve stem seal symptom because oil gets sucked form the head into the combustion chamber under vacuum with the throttle closed. They can be replaced in the car if you have some way to keep the valves closed while working (eg compressed air into cylinders) but is much easier with head off.
    • Alright, fair enough. Expected as much. Possibly, yes. However the kit is apparently not including every single hose and it is out of stock too.
×
×
  • Create New...