Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I was looking into getting an inline 3" varex put in the car so it wasnt to loud around town etc however I have a 3" back to just after the cat where it splits off into 2 2.5" (so it looks). It is an r33 gtst s1 with an rb25/30. I am looking at making about 360kw or so and was told that my 3" wont be up to it. The turbo is a GT35R with a 0.82 rear. It has a 4 bolt 3" outlet. I currently have a 3" front pipe from turbo to cat, a hollowed out 3" cat and then the two 2.5" pipes onwards.

I was looking into just getting a 3.5" cat and 3.5" cat back exhaust and putting in one of the inline 3.5" oval varex somewhere in there.

What I would really like to know is will the 3" pipe from the turbo to cat and then the 3.5" cat and 3.5" cat back be fine to support that kind of power?

I was reading on these forums that 3" would be fine but then others say it wont so Im stuck in the middle. What exhaust would you guys recommend from cat back where I can just cut in and add the 3.5" inline oval varex.

Cheers

Lukas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299519-what-exhaust/
Share on other sites

360rwkw = 3.5" all the way through from the dump to the rear tip, with at least a 4" Cat.

Honestly, Varex mufflers have a shit sound mate, i would just get two decent mufflers if you want a quiet and decent flowing exhaust.

It is exactly how i had mine done planning for upto 380rwkw at a max.

Rule i've been told to use

3" upto 300rwkw

3.5" upto 350-380rwkw

4" 400rwkw+

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299519-what-exhaust/#findComment-4978896
Share on other sites

360rwkw = 3.5" all the way through from the dump to the rear tip, with at least a 4" Cat.

Honestly, Varex mufflers have a shit sound mate, i would just get two decent mufflers if you want a quiet and decent flowing exhaust.

It is exactly how i had mine done planning for upto 380rwkw at a max.

Rule i've been told to use

3" upto 300rwkw

3.5" upto 350-380rwkw

4" 400rwkw+

Oh ok so I should be right putting a 4" exhaust from the turbo back? Just didnt know how i would go getting it down the little hole in the engine bay or how a 4" exhaust would go when the turbo outlet is only 3" :blink: Is it even possible to get a legal exhaust at 4"? f**king didnt budget for a bigger exhaust. Fcuk! How much do you think a 4" inch system would cost to get put in? Might have to pull some money out my a$$ by the looks of it :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299519-what-exhaust/#findComment-4979035
Share on other sites

3.5" will be cheaper, but not by much.

If you are not going to change turbo, 3.5" will be ok.

4" and legal... very very hard. 3.5" is hard enough to get legal, 4" just poses more problems.

Either way you won't be legal with a Varex - you'll need two big solid mufflers, they wont be cheap

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299519-what-exhaust/#findComment-4979188
Share on other sites

Yeh well I think 3.5" is the go if it will be legal. I will see how the stock exhaust goes and maybe I will just get it tuned mildly until after the christmas and new year are over. Will update this thread with how the exhaust holds up for future reference. :blink: Thanks ash

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299519-what-exhaust/#findComment-4979231
Share on other sites

Is it really essential to have an exhaust with that large a diameter? I thought in the past when this was debated that it turned out that 3" was pretty much ok for everything, that it came down to the combination of cat/mufflers moreso than the pipe diameter itself.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299519-what-exhaust/#findComment-4979298
Share on other sites

Is it really essential to have an exhaust with that large a diameter? I thought in the past when this was debated that it turned out that 3" was pretty much ok for everything, that it came down to the combination of cat/mufflers moreso than the pipe diameter itself.

Well I dont know. I thought if if the turbo was 3" outlet and I had a 3" dump, hollowed out cat and the rest was all good to flow fine then it would be fine. But I have been reading and apparently it is better to have a greater pressure difference on either side of the turbine. So if I had a 4" exhaust the exhaust gas will want to go from high pressure to low pressure (ie Manifold to dump pipe) faster than it would if I had a 3" exhaust. As there is a greater pressure difference. This in turn would obviously reduce spool time and free up top end power. DO NOT QUOTE ME ON THIS. This is just my basic understanding of why you would go to something so huge.

My question to everyone else is. Will I be able to still make about 320rwkw on an rb25/30 with type a poncams and a gt35r 0.82 rear with a 3" exhaust?

Edited by Lukas 33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299519-what-exhaust/#findComment-4981238
Share on other sites

The only thing you need to worry about is enough flow, if you don't have enough, or its slightly impeading you'll have issues. Sometimes you wont even notice.

Like the car still might make power, but be down 20-30rwkw and you'll never know and just say "right, thats what it made so be it". Its not until you then upgrade the exhaust, or drop it and do a run and then see that there is some still hidden inside.

Its not like having 4" on a setup making 250rwkw is going to offer anything over a 3" exhaust.

You will be struggling for 320rwkw with a 3ltr. It can be done, no doubt people have done so before.

But as i said above, you might find that 320rwkw with 3", might jump instantly to 340rwkw if you changed it/dropped the exhaust

Only way is to try it as the maths would be a nightmare :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299519-what-exhaust/#findComment-4981262
Share on other sites

The only thing you need to worry about is enough flow, if you don't have enough, or its slightly impeading you'll have issues. Sometimes you wont even notice.

Like the car still might make power, but be down 20-30rwkw and you'll never know and just say "right, thats what it made so be it". Its not until you then upgrade the exhaust, or drop it and do a run and then see that there is some still hidden inside.

Its not like having 4" on a setup making 250rwkw is going to offer anything over a 3" exhaust.

You will be struggling for 320rwkw with a 3ltr. It can be done, no doubt people have done so before.

But as i said above, you might find that 320rwkw with 3", might jump instantly to 340rwkw if you changed it/dropped the exhaust

Only way is to try it as the maths would be a nightmare :D

Yeh I have taken basic fluid mechanics and thermodynamics at uni but there is no way in hell im going to be doing those calculations! :worship:

Well we will do a run with the 3" and do a run with it dropped before the cat and see the difference it makes :D I would LOVE the bigger exhaust but there is always a trade off. Have the car only make 300kw with the 3" so I can drive the car home to see the family at xmas time OR put the car in for a 3.5 or 4" exhaust and catch a bus home to see the family while the car is being done.....anyway it all comes down to the test. Which reminds me I had better give the mechanics a call.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299519-what-exhaust/#findComment-4981638
Share on other sites

could always run it just off the front pipe over xmas :D

is there any commercially made 4" exhausts, or would you have to get one fabbed up?

HAHAHA :rofl: Yessssssss :D

yeh I think I am just going to get one fabbed up after the christmas and new year break and when I have some more moneys laying around. Might get a new manifold, bigger rear housing (depending on response and power output) and then get the exhaust done at the same time. Depending on how much extra money there is I might go for some new cooler piping and throttle body at the same time. Ah well time will tell.

R31nismoid - Yeh I dont really want anything hanging too low. Ive driven too many cars where every speed bump and driveway is "fcuk am i gunna scrape am i gunna scrape...shit!". I would like it tucked up nicely but being 4" I will have to see how much they can do :)

Almost home time! 9 mins till knock off time

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299519-what-exhaust/#findComment-4982610
Share on other sites

Like R34Nismoid says 3.5" probably the most practical bet. Best solution in between.

I am thinking of going a t04z in the future and maybe making about 400rwkw. Do you think a 3.5" will still be ok or should I just do the t04z and 4inch turbo back at the same time?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299519-what-exhaust/#findComment-4984824
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...