Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys.

Just another quick question before i bolt the new turbo in place. My factory Manifold is looking a bit worse for wear (Not leaking or anything though). Corroded away along with most of the bolts in it being stuffed. (Part of being 13 years old i guess)

Option 1 and the easiest - Leave it there pretend it isnt corroding and worry about it next time there is a problem. (maybe something could spray with to help protect the new bolts i will be putting in??)

Option 2 - Take it off (will be a nightmare i am sure) And replace it with a new Factory piece. If this is the case would it be well worth looking into ceramic coating? and would there be anything else you can do to improve the factory manifolds performance.

Option 3 - You tell me what this option is. If replacing with a non factory manifold it would have to line up like factory on both ends as well as sit in the factory location. i have ZERO interest in a himount setup.

Cheers for any help.

Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299767-stock-exhaust-manifold/
Share on other sites

Are you talking just some surface rust?

I cant imagine it being much more than that, which is nothing at all to worry about.

The manifold bolts - this is common after 10+ years. Just replace them with better studs and away you go mate.

You'll probably break a few, its easier to call a mobile thread dude to get them out - trying to do it yourself is the pits

If your super worried about the rust, get it sand blasted. Then ceramic coat it if you want it to be pretty.

I'd also port match the thing to a set of new gaskets, then clean up the casting marks etc ( on the inside ).

Edited by XRATED
Yeah its just surface. Just whilst i have access to it i might as well find out if theres a better alternative. i.e the caramic coating that will be better for me in the years to come

better in what way? :ninja:

performance - no real gains at all to coating, porting etc. Just added expense for a gain that is debatable.

It's a factory manifold which im assuming has a factory turbo (or similar small item attached).

looks - well coating or something will make it look better... but then you have a heat shield over most of it so unsure what advantage that has at the end of the day as you should always run the heat shield

Located in Bendigo Central Vic.

Thanks for answering. I shall stick with the existing manifold as it is at the moment, except with some new bolts. Yeah i still have the cover so im not fussed at all with what the manifold looks like.

Concern Solved.

Luke

You'll probably break a few, its easier to call a mobile thread dude to get them out - trying to do it yourself is the pits

Theres a tool you can get that makes it very easy

i think its called a thread puller or stud puller, can get it from repco, never know when it will come in handy

How long does it take to go back to the way it was?

6 months?

was that a question for me. if so sand blasting is a surface preperation. so all depends on if it gets coated or not.

generally most people just want the surface cleaned up and thats it.

was that a question for me. if so sand blasting is a surface preperation. so all depends on if it gets coated or not.

generally most people just want the surface cleaned up and thats it.

Just wondering how long it takes before it goes back to what it was like before :rofl:

Theres a tool you can get that makes it very easy

i think its called a thread puller or stud puller, can get it from repco, never know when it will come in handy

Debateable. I know there are easy outs etc.

But read the threads here about people that have attempted this alone, and ended up calling someone out the next time etc.

It costs very little per broken stud. Consensus usually seems to suggest pay the $100-$200

yeah good question, like most mild metals left uncoated they will rust, touching the steel with sweaty hands will bring

the rust on quick. i would say you would get 6-12 months on a exhaust manifold before it rusted again. but if you lived

close to salt water that could speed things up.

I charge around $40-$50 per broken stud. that's the price if you dont touch it, if you have had a go and cant get it you could be looking

at around $60 a stud depending what you have done, and if you have snapped a drill bit or easy out in there as well,expect to pay around

$100 a stud. and these prices vairy depending on the access to the stud as well.

Edited by boostn32
yeah good question, like most mild metals left uncoated they will rust, touching the steel with sweaty hands will bring

the rust on quick. i would say you would get 6-12 months on a exhaust manifold before it rusted again. but if you lived

close to salt water that could speed things up.

I charge around $40-$50 per broken stud. that's the price if you dont touch it, if you have had a go and cant get it you could be looking

at around $60 a stud depending what you have done, and if you have snapped a drill bit or easy out in there as well,expect to pay around

$100 a stud. and these prices vairy depending on the access to the stud as well.

gotta love it when they dont tell you that they already snapped an easy out in there makes you just want to smash skulls sometimes! 

So so true, only one word comes to mind when you see someting else snapped off in there, F*#K

haha yeah, thats the one word that gets said after the whole "what the f$$k, why isnt this working like normal, that should be coming out, what the f$$k is that there, Ahh F$$K" than its followed by "useless F$$king c$nts that don't know what the f**k there doing"

oh the joy of it all lmfao

Edited by Cartman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...