Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. Was just wondering if anybody could shed some light on whether it is important to have the solid water pipe connected to the bottom of the plenum. I have had the plenum on the car for a while now, but would like to keep as much heat away from the plenum as possible, as I believe this is the reason skylines have hot start issues (pending on mods). (Mine doesn't have that problem, as my tuner has rectified that when he done the tune)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300023-greddy-plenum/
Share on other sites

I don't think i fully understand what you mean...

The pipe underneath the plenum that connects to the 3 inlets on the plenum,

If that's what ur talking about i think it's pretty important, considering that your coolant comes into the plenum then into the motor..

if you were going to modify it, it would be a pretty big job...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300023-greddy-plenum/#findComment-4985120
Share on other sites

the reason for the coolant passing around the throttle body's is to stop them freezing solid

think about it Japan is so dam cold.

but in Australia you shouldn't have a problem and it had been proven that you can gain power by bypassing the throttle body/s.

its easy i did it in my r33 gtst just find the entry and exit points either side of the throttle body/s and join them together.

i used a length of 6mm copper pipe.

i will be doing the same with my R32 gtr when i get a chance!!!!

WARNING!!!! Although you can get power gains there are some side affects you must know before doing this mod.

there is a chance that you throttle body/s may freeze in position on a cold night.

if this ever happens it is a very scary experience as the car will keep accelerating even after you take your foot off the throttle!!!!

the easiest way to get out of this situation is to stab the throttle to the floor and then back off again. this breaks the throttle body free of any ice and will return to normal.

the only other side affect is that the car cold start function will take longer

meaning the car will idle high for a bit longer than usual and it takes longer for the cold start valve the heat up as it no longer have coolant flowing through it.

hope this helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300023-greddy-plenum/#findComment-4990836
Share on other sites

the reason for the coolant passing around the throttle body's is to stop them freezing solid

think about it Japan is so dam cold.

but in Australia you shouldn't have a problem and it had been proven that you can gain power by bypassing the throttle body/s.

its easy i did it in my r33 gtst just find the entry and exit points either side of the throttle body/s and join them together.

i used a length of 6mm copper pipe.

i will be doing the same with my R32 gtr when i get a chance!!!!

WARNING!!!! Although you can get power gains there are some side affects you must know before doing this mod.

there is a chance that you throttle body/s may freeze in position on a cold night.

if this ever happens it is a very scary experience as the car will keep accelerating even after you take your foot off the throttle!!!!

the easiest way to get out of this situation is to stab the throttle to the floor and then back off again. this breaks the throttle body free of any ice and will return to normal.

the only other side affect is that the car cold start function will take longer

meaning the car will idle high for a bit longer than usual and it takes longer for the cold start valve the heat up as it no longer have coolant flowing through it.

hope this helps.

He's not talking about the T/B pipe... he's talking about the galleries in the plenum...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300023-greddy-plenum/#findComment-4992217
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...