Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just want to know if anyone has done this and how effective it was

I have a problem at the moment where when I run highish boost i can hear the rubber pipe between the AFM and the turbo sucking shut, and the car drops massively in performance. When running normal boost - 1bar, its fine but when I wind it up a bit further to 1.2bar I can hear it really sucking the intake and restricting the inlet air - really frustrating as the little HKS turbo really want to go, but it is being choked!

So I want to change the pipework to metal to stop this from happening, but want to know if anyone has had any troubles, especially with the AFM playing up due to the pipework being changed?

Thanks for any info

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30014-afm-to-turbo-pipe-rb20-upgrade/
Share on other sites

nah, its been re-programmed so the boost cut is about 22 or 24 psi from memory, definatley pipe sucking shut

When its cold (weather wise) the rubber hose stays quite hard and isn't a problem, I have seen 1.3bar on the gauge in 3rd when it was cold, so its no boost/airflow cut, as they have all been lifted quite high to stop this

This rubber pipe shouldn't close over at those boost levels but installing a nice smooth metal pipe will improve flow. One thing to note is that the original pipe has a section in front of the turbos inlet designed to reduce turbulance in the pipe caused by the turbo. Not having this in place can cause minor airflow meter inaccuracy but will not do any damage.

Interesting, as I am 100% positive that its causing the problem, to what degree I am unsure but high boost is pretty well useless at the moment

What about using some coiled wire to wind inside the pipe? Has anyone tried this?

Yeah this is a sort of common problem. I know (personally) that the RB20 pipe won't support anymore that about 200rwkw, although they can fail at a fair bit less that this. Mine was replaced with a 3 inch mild steel pipe. It works really well, heaps of flow awersome unrestricted flow capabilities. It should definately be upgraded even if you are not having problems with the stock pipe yet.

Ok sounds like it would be best to replace it, as at the moment with 1bar its making 200rwkw, so I am guessing with 1.2bar its just to much vacum for the poor old rubber pipe to handle! Should be a good upgrade either way, I'll keep everyone posted of the results

Can anything be put in the new pipe to replace whatever it is in the standard pipe to reduce the turbulence or is it not worth the hassle....

After reading this i am considering doing the same to my car... 3" mild steel from air-filter to turbo... does it require any other modification....???...

  Chris32 said:
Just want to know if anyone has done this and how effective it was

especially with the AFM playing up due to the pipework being changed?

Well if your pipe is getting sucked shut, then it would be very effective to put in a pipe that doesnt get sucked shut.

And as for AFM, no worries, the AFM would be before your pipe starts anyhow :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...