Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After having a new camshaft fitted last week ( 72 degree grind), today I had it dynoed. This involved a slight timing change and a tickle of the webers. Approx HP @ wheels was 175, give or take a few horsies. He took it up to 185 kph,@ almost 6000rpm and it was still pulling, f-k it was loud, but nice to listen to, that weber roar is a wicked note.

Car goes in for painting finally this week. 2 Pac "Bleached White" Chrysler colour apparently.

Being an ex Kiwi I may get the number plates "BLEACHED AS", been hinting ti wifey that they'd make a great Chrissy pressie.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300144-dynoed-the-l28-today/
Share on other sites

I just kicked myself, I didn't even think about it. I was rushing too much this morn as I had an hour drive and had to be there for 8.30. It would've made a good vid as it took place at a warehousetype building that housed a private collecton of motor racing cars. Whilst most of the work was being performed I was sticky beaking at all the 1915-1930 something race cars. For example one had an 8 ltr 6 cylinder, one had a V8 spitfire engine( the aeroplane) All told there was about 15 pristine vintage racers. The dyno use to belong to the guy who did the tune for me, he sold his business about 7 years ago and the owner of these cars purchased Daryls dyno.The owner of these cars races regularly and has his own mechanic servicing these vehicles as per needed, or when they're about to go racing. They may not have liked the idea of me filming at his residence as it's not your typical dyno shop. Daryl also cut and adjusted all my spark plug leads to make them nice and tidy. Just had to pay the mechanic $50 and all was settled. I was stoked, but as Daryl pointed out , this was all included in the camshaft job which set me back $800. Cam $390, lash pads about $60 and the rest labour which I feel is still very reasonable as it's quality work from a very experienced person.

I just kicked myself, I didn't even think about it. I was rushing too much this morn as I had an hour drive and had to be there for 8.30. It would've made a good vid as it took place at a warehousetype building that housed a private collecton of motor racing cars. Whilst most of the work was being performed I was sticky beaking at all the 1915-1930 something race cars. For example one had an 8 ltr 6 cylinder, one had a V8 spitfire engine( the aeroplane) All told there was about 15 pristine vintage racers. The dyno use to belong to the guy who did the tune for me, he sold his business about 7 years ago and the owner of these cars purchased Daryls dyno.The owner of these cars races regularly and has his own mechanic servicing these vehicles as per needed, or when they're about to go racing. They may not have liked the idea of me filming at his residence as it's not your typical dyno shop. Daryl also cut and adjusted all my spark plug leads to make them nice and tidy. Just had to pay the mechanic $50 and all was settled. I was stoked, but as Daryl pointed out , this was all included in the camshaft job which set me back $800. Cam $390, lash pads about $60 and the rest labour which I feel is still very reasonable as it's quality work from a very experienced person.

You get a torque figure too?

D

After having a new camshaft fitted last week ( 72 degree grind), today I had it dynoed. This involved a slight timing change and a tickle of the webers. Approx HP @ wheels was 175, give or take a few horsies. He took it up to 185 kph,@ almost 6000rpm and it was still pulling, f-k it was loud, but nice to listen to, that weber roar is a wicked note.

Car goes in for painting finally this week. 2 Pac "Bleached White" Chrysler colour apparently.

Being an ex Kiwi I may get the number plates "BLEACHED AS", been hinting ti wifey that they'd make a great Chrissy pressie.

What are you calling a 72 degree grind Ricky?

Cheers, D

Hi D, I'm calling it a 72 because I was told my old cam was a 68 performance cam from nissan and now I have a 72 from Clive cams in the East.

Grind No 396

Lift@lobe in 331 ex 331

ADVERTISED TIMING:

Duaration: Exhaust open 288

Duration: Inlet opens 280

VALVE TIMING

Duration: Exhaust opens 252

Duration: Inlet opens 246

The Dyno run was more about getting the fuel mix/timing right. I really didn't even think about all those other things.Like I said it's not a Dyno shop where they give you a print out, it's a privately owned machine used for someones private collection of cars. Next time, as there will be a next time I'll ask for those figures. As Daryl pointed out , all my HP at the mo only comes from bolt on components and a small amount of match porting on the head, oh and of course it being bored to 3.0ltrs.Next year the head is in for some serious work as there was no problem with clearance with the new cam in place. The head hasn't been skimmed at all, it's still stock pretty much.So comp will be going up. Got to go to work now. Bye

Mmmmmmmm, there interesting figures.

Not common to use staggered inlet & exhaust on n/a motors here in Oz.

Very common in US on turbo L28's.

Mine isn't that big, but fairly considering I'm adding boost, all be it rather low @ under a bar.

Will be interested to see how it turns out & what figures it produces.

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you ask just me you'll get 3 different answers.
    • Do not ever trust ChatGPT with anything math related. They can't do math. They have no idea what it is. With enough data we can fit a decent equation in Excel, or if the available fits in Excel aren't good enough, a Matlab clone.
    • You could check/calibrate that with a thermometer, we have long glass thermometers at work which go from -10 to +150°c, they are pretty cheap too I believe,  as monkey fisted soldiers tend to break them, and getting new ones don't seem to send red flags to the people that hold the purse strings Edit: after a google they apparently cost about $80, but, digital ones seem to be much cheaper at around $40
    • I should have prefaced all of this with "I'd really like to not pull anything out of the car for this" 
    • Me, I would happly spend some more coin on better tyres for my street car  Will they work, yes, of course, but why substitute some dry grip/braking distance, and wet weather grip/braking distance on what is really old tech to save some coin on your "precious" street car In the end it might not be you that farks up, it's the thousands of other idiots on the street that you need to worry about  For a street car that gets some "fun time", I have found that a quality tyre that can handle dry, wet, cold (Canberra gets pretty cold) and hot conditions, which may costs a little more, is great insurance  From my experience with them (driving around Goulburn in the winter) the RE003's are pretty poor in cold and/or wet conditions on the street If RS4's didn't hate gripping in the cold I would be running them always on the street,  great in the dry, OK in the wet, but, they do hate the cold, with a passion, I run PS5's year round now, basically, I've found the PS5 to be a great year round street tyre for all conditions, they last well, and are mid range pricing wise TL;DR. Tyre choice is probably like what brand and grade oil you should use, ask 10 people, and get 10 different answers... LOL
×
×
  • Create New...