Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK I've had this weird thought that I should buy a VT/VX SS Commodore GenIII 6 speed. The reasons are I want something that I can tow a boat with next year when I buy one and something a little larger in size so I can seat more people.

I currently own an R33 GTST that I have had NO problems with at all. The only thing is the car will be 10 years old next year and as all cars this old it is showing its age.

Feel free to swing my decision away from the SS but keep in mind I want something NEW not pre 1997. Yes I could buy a 1991 R32 GTR :sly: but these cars are far too old. The engine will be tired and so will be the paint.

So basically I want something around the $25-28k, NEW, powerfull, towing capabilities and reliable.

HELP

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30016-help-me-i-want-to-buy-a-commodore/
Share on other sites

Autech Stagea 260RS - no further discussion required :rolleyes:

fun for the WHOLE family! :)

Maybe not Autech, but possibly a Stagea.

oh and ur looking at figures of about 30% of GenIII's with mechanical problems, major problems.

oh and ur looking at figures of about 30% of GenIII's with mechanical problems, major problems.

Where are these statistics from?

10% of people know statistics 50% of statistics are made up on the spot :rolleyes:

Honestly, I don't think a VTii/VX SS is a bad idea.

Guest RedLineGTR

for about $25-28k u can find yourself (well i have seen advertised) a nice R34 Gtt (stock Form) going for about 28-29K the year is a 98 model so its not that old if your worried about it depends what u want to use it for. For that price you have to have a decent look around but these are the prices they are starting to go for.

Autech Stagea 260RS - no further discussion required :rolleyes:

fun for the WHOLE family! :)

QUOTE]

Id love an Autech Stagea too, its a pitty that they sell for more than R34 GTRs hey? If only i had a spare 100k lying around.

Im pretty sure there is only 1 Autech Stagea in Australia, the one that was in HPI a while back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...