Jump to content
SAU Community

Assistance With Series 2 R33.


KaiShin
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey Everyone,

Ive been building my rb25det r33 series 2 over the last 12 months or so.

I have it to the stage where it is ready to be registered etc. And have had it running.

However, it looks like it is in safe mode and very possibly the AFM is not working.

Has anyone got any sure fire ways of testing the AFM to see if it is in fact broken or do I need to find someone with a working AFM and hook it up to test it out?

I have checked ohms across all three points on the AFM and none of them read '0' so I am assuming that somewhere inside it is failing at resisting :banana:.

Some info. The 02 sensor is a brand new bosch replacement. So this should be working 100% (unless my wiring fails, which Id like to think I wired it correctly). The AFM seems to be the culprit.

Any thoughts from anyone? Or anyone living near Petrie north Brisbane with a spare series 2 AFM we could throw on it to test.

Cheers,

Trent

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Woohoo, not far to go now mate :P

Does it sound like it's rev limiting at 2.5-3k, or will it just not rev past there? Have you checked for intake leaks? You mention rewiring, did you have to rewire the AFM as well (or did you use a Ford O2 sensor and have to modify the wiring for that)? Are you sure the wiring is correct, the plug is OK, and the wiring hasn't pulled out of the plug slightly?

If you are able to get hold of someone who has Consult and a diags cable they'll be able to tell you what the sensors (including the AFM) are reading. I don't know enough about electronics to tell you what resistance the different terminals should be (though I'd think if they're all infinity you'll have a problem :) ) but 'normal' output voltages are between 0V (no airflow) to 5V (max airflow, ~220rwkw), so at idle I'd imagine it'd be reading around 0.2 - 0.3V?? You should be able to check that with the multimeter too if you suspect the AFM.

I live on the northside too and have an S2 R33, I'm happy to pop around with the car or even just the AFM, but I often work pretty long hours so getting to you might be an issue. If you don't have any luck getting it sorted and can't get someone nearby, let me know and I'll see what I can do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Mate,

Ive got a consult cable and software on the way as we speak to check it out.

The 02 sensor is a brand newey. 3 wire type. Wiring for it was 2 white wires and a coloured wire. All the info around said that the two white wires were just the negatives and could be hooked up to either of the negative loom wires etc. So, fairly straight forward (will see once the consult is here LOL)

The AFM plug was removed from the loom when I got it. So I had to wire a plug into it. Have got wiring diagrams etc. On paper its right. Just dont think the AFM is up to scratch.. once again. consult will tell.

Il wait out till it arrives and check it out. As i wouldnt want to damage your AFM just for trying its sake.

Will let you know. Thanks for the offer.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hmm sounds like the problem im having again

and by cutting out do you mean stuttering and struggling to go but soon as you put you foot down and get above the rev range it is fine

if so i had the same prob and its starting to come back

for me it was the o2 sensor got a new one and didn't have an issue for 8 months

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey,

Mine is a little different. It bounces off of 2500-3000 like a ceiling. The ECU is in Safe mode. And the car runs no different with the AFM connected or unplugged.

Hint Hint lol.

Wont know if the O2 sensor is an issue as well until I fix the AFM issue. as the AFM is clearly not functioning.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
×
×
  • Create New...