Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know I would rather be driving a car that was quick over one lap and then preserve my tyres by driving sensibly than having a slow car and trying to wring the neck of it to keep up.

RBR and Ferrari in a very good position for the race.

Still though, there is only so much that driving technique and throttle-brake control can affect tyre wear... Ultimately, if it ends up being a scorcher tomorrow, they could tickle those slicks and still have them grain and wear badly.. Were as the hard will be more durable..

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I know I would rather be driving a car that was quick over one lap and then preserve my tyres by driving sensibly than having a slow car and trying to wring the neck of it to keep up.

RBR and Ferrari in a very good position for the race.

we'll see... personally, I'd rather have the better handling car for the majority of the race than just be able to do 1 fast lap on empty tanks. 150kg of fuel has to alter the car's behaviour.

Alonso in the fezza is pretty exciting. The team mate battles in Ferrari, McLaren & RBR are going to be interesting. And see how the self-confessed rusty old man goes. Qualifying 7th and only a couple of tenths off the young gun teammate is not bad for his first competitive drive in 3 years if you ask me.

I can't wait for the race!

we'll see... personally, I'd rather have the better handling car for the majority of the race than just be able to do 1 fast lap on empty tanks.

I agree but I'm not sure those two things are necessarily mutually exclusive. We don't know which cars are easy on tyres yet but it won't be long till we find out.

It still reckon it easier to make a fast car go slow than try to make a slow car go fast.

not the hand-me-down win he was looking for, but alonso looked wrapped to be back

showing the schmucks how its done, im glad he a contender again. would have been sad to see the best guy on the grid running around in 12th for another year

EDIT:

lol

old dead eye doenst look too happy with 2nd

... get used to it buddy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...