Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rb25det Build. Safe Mode Cut At 2500-3000rpm, Running Rich.


KaiShin
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey Everyone,

Ive been building my rb25det r33 series 2 over the last 12 months or so.

I have it to the stage where it is ready to be registered etc. And have had it running.

However, it looks like it is in safe mode and very possibly the AFM is not working.

Has anyone got any sure fire ways of testing the AFM to see if it is in fact broken or do I need to find someone with a working AFM and hook it up to test it out?

I have checked ohms across all three points on the AFM and none of them read '0' so I am assuming that somewhere inside it is failing at resisting .

Some info. The 02 sensor is a brand new bosch replacement. So this should be working 100% (unless my wiring fails, which Id like to think I wired it correctly). The AFM seems to be the culprit.

Any thoughts from anyone? Or anyone living near Petrie north Brisbane with a spare series 2 AFM we could throw on it to test.

Cheers,

Trent

Link to comment
Share on other sites

try and borrow (or buy) a consult cable. this way you can plug a laptop into the car and see if there are any error codes and check the AFM voltage at the ecu.

as for o2 sensor, it won't make any difference to how it runs. i ran my car for a few months without it being plugged in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey Everyone,

Still having issues here.

Ive got the consult and tested everything over and over again.

It appears that the previous owner of my loom had a safc in it.... not such a huge issue.. traced everything back etc. all good.

The Afm is putting out a voltage signal of around 2.7volts without the engine running. Is this normal?

When the engine is turned over. the air being sucked through cools it to around 2.3volts.

The engine itself wont start while the afm is plugged in. The pulse width on the injectors stays at around 0.8 etc. and the ecu still spits out error code 12 for the afm circuit.

When i disconnect the afm it starts up again in safe mode. injector pulse goes back to normal etc. still with the same error code.

This is a series 2 ecu, loom with pink sticker afm.

Thoughts anyone?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2.7V is very high for not having the engine running. i think they should be around 1.5V at idle if i remember correctly and 0v if the engine isn't running. it could be a faulty AFM or a wiring issue (such as faulty earth)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm sounds to me like a dodgy AFM. If it starts and idles mint without the AFM plugged in id say that would be the case.

Itd be wise to see if some nice person will let you borrow one.

I know a dude that bought a 2nd hand AFM, same problem, then bought a OEM Nissan brand new for $600... same problem. Was a faulty earth in the ECU. I tried to lend him mine, but he was confident it was the AFM haha,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Hey guys

I have the exact same problem, but what do you mean by a faulty earth in the ecu?

Are you talking about the ecu external casing being grounded to the body of the car or is it something else, can anyone please advice as im loosing the plot over this :banana:

Cheers James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

faulty ecu earth could be a number of things.. most of the earths collect in a small brown plug near the ecu where they are bridged together, as well as the 4 or 5 pins in the ecu that are earths.

Obviously the ecu has power and so is earthed but it may be the sensor wiring is damaged or misconnected ie wrong wire, or even one of the switches on the board is not operating or has burnt out in which case a new ecu is probably in order.

I vaguely remember with the power fc hand controller i had the afm off the inlet pipe but still connected and i was blowing through it watching it go from 0 to 0.34v or something like that. get someone to watch the pc and see if it changes when you blow through.

I have also had some interesting issues with running different series gtst afm's on cars, maybe you should look at the plug end, especially if thats ever been changed. A series 2 afm for example on a series 1 you need to leave one of the 2 sensor earths disconnected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for sharing your experience jeffworld2, i just recently cleaned my AFM with contact / circut board cleaner, it was absoluely filthy... it was amazing if it could measure anything, stupid HKS pod filter filters nothing. car seems to be running a bit better, although i did notice the idle rpm seems to be a bit higher.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi All Finally getting back to work on the R32 this weekend and had a quick question about the GKTech anti squat kit (https://au.gktech.com/products/s13-180sx-r32-subframe-anti-squat-reduction-weld-in-kit?_pos=39&_fid=eb6b5077e&_ss=c) So, this straightens out the rear LCA and increases the roll centre by 20MM which is great BUT I also have MFR roll centre adjusters (https://www.rhdjapan.com/moonface-super-lap-rc-joint-roll-center-adjuster-bnr32-ps13-rps13.html) which gives a +15MM lift. My question is whether they can/should be used together or if its going to massively effect the geometry? In my mind, I can't see that they work together but was hoping for some feedback on someone who has done this before deciding which to use or if both?   Thanks
    • Agreed. Thing has to be running absolutely pig rich as well. I would worry a lot less about your idle and start going through all your electrical before the car burns down. 
    • Before and after of reflectors, two coats brushed on. i used a bucket full of hot water to to heat up glue, then pry the lenses out a little with a flathead screwdriver and cutting with a Stanley. I’m not sure how the paint will go but it’s my best chance without dipping.  see the reflection in the picture I’m pointing? That’s two coats paint and you can see the state of it in before shot after I cleaned it       
    • roll and pump rear guards = you'll be fine mate
×
×
  • Create New...