Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Got my car back from my tuner yesterday and I'm running 400rwhp with a GT3076 and cams on a comfortable tune..... :)

Now I want some semi slicks on the rears before I hit the drags :ninja:

Anyone know of good bang for buck semi slicks I can grab in WA or online?

Thanks for the help in advance!

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300475-400rwhp-what-semi-slicks/
Share on other sites

You want drag tyres just for the drag strip, or you want semi-slicks for road/circuit ?

For the drag strip I'd go Mickey Thompson Street ET's, and for circuit racing Bridgestone RE55's

Hi Mate,

Thanks for the advice!

Well seeing as its not an all out track car and used on road more, I want to go with some really good semi slicks for road/track.

Where is the best place to grab Semis from?

Hi Mate,

Thanks for the advice!

Well seeing as its not an all out track car and used on road more, I want to go with some really good semi slicks for road/track.

Where is the best place to grab Semis from?

You are far better off getting some tyres for the drags & running on the road on normal road tyres.

Semi slicks & radial drag tyres are rubbish on the street. Not to mention uncomfortable & fiendishly expensive.

Don't bother going to the drags with semi slicks - they are rubbish for that too. Get some drag tyres for the drags.

If you want to do some track work use Bridgestone RE55 semi slicks. Get them from the local distributer.

You are far better off getting some tyres for the drags & running on the road on normal road tyres.

Semi slicks & radial drag tyres are rubbish on the street. Not to mention uncomfortable & fiendishly expensive.

Don't bother going to the drags with semi slicks - they are rubbish for that too. Get some drag tyres for the drags.

If you want to do some track work use Bridgestone RE55 semi slicks. Get them from the local distributer.

Thanks for your input.

Comfort is not a issue as it is a weekend car usually.

Also the $$$ is not a problem as I need to buy new rear tyres soon anyway and I would like good quality tyres on the rear for a weekend drive.

I'm staying away from full drag slicks because I would like to see what I can run on road legal semi slicks at the drags.

That's impressive. How much whp was your 31 running?

Cheers James let me know how they go!

Not impressive , 60 ft shit for the tyres .. 31 makes 400+ rwhp , 60fts on Toyo Teo 225x50x16 are 1.8s .. 10sec 32 we used R888 toyos .. Comes down to driver and rest of the car set up

^^ yer i was reading an old hpi mag my gf bought me for 50c at an op shop last night :D and they were giving '10 ways to get a stockish rb25 into 11's' was kind of suprised to read they said ur best to ditch all stiff suspension (coilovers etc) and run stock struts/springs + minimum drag radials with small rims 15-16"

Edited by Char
You want drag tyres just for the drag strip, or you want semi-slicks for road/circuit ?

For the drag strip I'd go Mickey Thompson Street ET's, and for circuit racing Bridgestone RE55's

+1

Semi-slicks = slower times at the drags

Semi-slicks are better for the street but too expernsive as an ongoing cost. Who wants to spend $2K every 12 months on tyres?

A good quality street tyre will do the job for the street well enough.

MT ET's are great for drag as the side wall is softer and far more suited for drag racing (that's what they were made for).

If you are serious about quick times, get ET's + smaller diameter rims to allow you to have more sidewall (rather than less).

semi slicks are not better for the street they are shit

noisy pick every little stone pebble etc up and fling em into your undertray paint etc

and if it rains well good luck

Someone once described em to me on here as sounding like tractor tyres and its quite true

(I drive my car with semis to the local circuit)

Stiff as sidewalls no good for drag at all, great for circuit no good for anything else

Run street tyres for street and get some drag radials on another pair of rims for the drags

and if ya have not got a cage sell the used drag tyres n rims once ya crack 11's

i run the 595rs as a hybrid tyre and it performs well two seasons on the skidpans at ahg with driving all the way up from mandurah and back and a little weekend use

bang for your buck hybrid two thumbsup but if your serious MTs for drags and toyos or bridgestone for track

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...