Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's what I did over Christmas

I bought a 40mm triple core radiator from Just Jap Cooling-pro Skyline ECR33 (CPRO40mmRAD-ECR33) $329.oo. They have a 60mm as well but I was advised against it as it was suited more for a dedicated track car and it would have to go in without the shroud in place. I also bought a 7inch thermo fan for the auto cooler (Thermofan-7inch) $50.oo.With freight to the door it was $429.oo. Now when I go up the range the water temp is about 30deg lower the engine oil is about 15deg lower and the auto is about 20deg cooler. Temps were done using one of those laser heat guns tested before and after the upgrade.

Best money I have spent in a while. I will just have to see what winter brings and I will cross that bridge when I get there.

post-25786-1263189647_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Mine started to heat up especially with A/C turned on or on dyno.

Ebay alum. asi performance 52mm $199 delivered!

Sits at 84-85'c with A/C on, boosting and Qld summer.

### p.s. guage didn't move from 1/2 even at 99'c!!! ###

Edited by RED513

i got a new clutch assembly for the fan and that will be going in this weekend, the car has been staying cool while driving but i haven't had it stationary and idling yet which is when it heats up, fingers crossed the clutch assembly will get me out of trouble.

I will keep you updated

Problem solved guys, it was my clutch assembly for the fan, put on a new one, went for a drive and idled it with air con on and never went past half way. Many thanks for opinions and help, appreciate it.

  • 3 weeks later...
Here's what I did over Christmas

I bought a 40mm triple core radiator from Just Jap Cooling-pro Skyline ECR33 (CPRO40mmRAD-ECR33) $329.oo. They have a 60mm as well but I was advised against it as it was suited more for a dedicated track car and it would have to go in without the shroud in place. I also bought a 7inch thermo fan for the auto cooler (Thermofan-7inch) $50.oo.With freight to the door it was $429.oo. Now when I go up the range the water temp is about 30deg lower the engine oil is about 15deg lower and the auto is about 20deg cooler. Temps were done using one of those laser heat guns tested before and after the upgrade.

Best money I have spent in a while. I will just have to see what winter brings and I will cross that bridge when I get there.

post-25786-1263189647_thumb.jpg

Nice... please tell me where I can find an alloy radiator with the auto trans heat exchanger in the bottom!!

I allways wonder how people with Auto stags go upgrading their radiators....

Half the reason of the bottom tank for the trans auto fluid is to heat it up when the cars cold to get it to running temps. In the winter months with only a transcooler it shall be interesting.

Stags only lock up the transfer and go into overdrive once the trans oil temp reaches a certain temp so yeah it will be interesting.

Also touch wood but im in SA and have had some very hot 40+ degree days and sitting in start stop traffic with aircon cranking and my needle never moves. sits prob 1/5th below half all the time. Stock radiator with a FMIC and PWR V8 trans cooler.

I allways wonder how people with Auto stags go upgrading their radiators....

Half the reason of the bottom tank for the trans auto fluid is to heat it up when the cars cold to get it to running temps. In the winter months with only a transcooler it shall be interesting.

Stags only lock up the transfer and go into overdrive once the trans oil temp reaches a certain temp so yeah it will be interesting.

Also touch wood but im in SA and have had some very hot 40+ degree days and sitting in start stop traffic with aircon cranking and my needle never moves. sits prob 1/5th below half all the time. Stock radiator with a FMIC and PWR V8 trans cooler.

you're not looking at your stock water temp gauge are you? those bastards lie... i think it was QWK32 who was telling me that there's 2 temp sensors in the stag, one for the ecu and the other for the standard water gauge. an aftermarket sensor + gauge will tell you much more than the standard gauge will.

I just had my Stageas top tank replaced and radiator flushed. As it had a tiny leak.

Quoted $300 drive in drive out, done under warranty :laugh:

Cool... I have heard under $200 for top tank replace; I don't know if this includes a core clean or not (a 'flush' could mean they just let the coolant out and replace it... however that does mean another $50+ for new (decent) coolant) or whether it means I have to take the radiator to them. I assume I do.

But the standard core is only 16mm thick FFS. I don't want to spend at least half the cost of an alloy radiator on an old core, to end up with stupid plastic end tanks again, and a 16mm thick radiator which is only going to fail again in 6 months.

Trouble is I've been having a hell of a time finding any kind of aftermarket radiator which is thicker than 16mm and has the auto trans cooler/warmer built into the bottom, for under $1,000. So I don't know what to do.

Cool... I have heard under $200 for top tank replace; I don't know if this includes a core clean or not (a 'flush' could mean they just let the coolant out and replace it... however that does mean another $50+ for new (decent) coolant) or whether it means I have to take the radiator to them. I assume I do.

But the standard core is only 16mm thick FFS. I don't want to spend at least half the cost of an alloy radiator on an old core, to end up with stupid plastic end tanks again, and a 16mm thick radiator which is only going to fail again in 6 months.

Trouble is I've been having a hell of a time finding any kind of aftermarket radiator which is thicker than 16mm and has the auto trans cooler/warmer built into the bottom, for under $1,000. So I don't know what to do.

i was quoted $120 for new top o ring and flush, $180 for new top tank and flush and o ring

and flush was geting the core rodded = definitely removing the shit in there

no worries, just give them a call, probs best to tell them its an auto skyline is prob the easiest

also, that price was for me removing the rad myself and not including the coolant i'll need later

i went for a 40mm cooling pro one but i've got a manual

you could get an r31 one cheap and they are thicker and come in auto but have a different top mount but you could fab something

For interest I was quoted $190 if I dropped the radiator off, and they cleaned it out and new top tank.

I would have prefered an alloy one, but cheap alloy auto tanks are hard to find and this was covered by warranty anyway.

Interesting thanks Brendan. I'll try to get a hold of a whole radiator tomorrow as now with mine out the core looks stuffed.

On a side note... doesn't it suck how much coolant is lost when you open the cooling system (and you can't be bothered putting it on stands and collecting it with a bunch of clean containers the right size that you don't have, and re-using it... I never can bring myself to reuse coolant... looks so nasty)

the 31 rad could prob be made to fit but i'm not sure if the bottom has pegs, the dimensions of the core are fine and the hose exits are in the same place

maybe get a manual rad and an oil cooler and mount the cooler behind the rad = hot air onto it which will stabilise the temps a bit quicker

  • 3 months later...

I am having the same old over heating issues on my S1 stag as well. I am booked in for a radiator clean. I also want to replace the clutch fan. I had one on order at super cheap but they called today and said they cant get them in.

so, does anyone know where i can buy a new clutch fan assembly?? I have also tried burson's and auto pro on the coast.

Cheers

Adam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Half anticipating the next question then: I have two magnets stuck in my oil pan. What should I do? 
    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
×
×
  • Create New...