Bargain Twin Turbo Awd 1996 Subaru Liberty $4999 Was 10k
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One other thing worth mentioning when I did this job I only jacked up the driver side as I was only doing work there, but from what I understand both wheels should be in the air when removing the sway bar links? -
Yep it's an r34. Usually people remove struts without removing the front upper control arm (fuca is what i assume this is?) So not sure why mine wouldn't fit. I know on my other car I did a similar job and it wouldn't fit until I removes the ball joint nut even though I didn't remove it prior. The upper arm doesn't seem to be in the way (the part that's bolted to the chassis. The part that's bolted onto the j arm I'll check that out though. I was going to compress the spring and put it in with the compressor attached but not sure if it will work Haven't seen anyone do it.
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I have a small lip on the boot of the E90 and I've been toying with the idea of trying to mould it in to the boot to remove the gaps. I guess shaving the seams? No idea what the terminology is here. What I'm wondering is, if it's current double sided taped down, what would I do to more permanently attach it so it makes a good base for the filler? It only has edges so no way to bolt it down unless I add some braces. I've done a lot of fibre glassing in my time so that's nice and easy but I'm not sure what my options are here. Sorry, this is the best pic I have and I'm 4 million ks from home ATM. -
Based on this comment I went googling. A052's in the sizes I want are certainly not cheap, but I couldn't find anything in the V70A anywhere. How much do they run/where do they get sourced from? From what I know (nothing but internet searches and reviews etc) the R888 has pretty much fallen off from anyone's actual use, and the AO52 is the king of "road legal" rubber. Nobody is driving around on their daily for Z221, AO050, DZ03G. At that point, for purely track only tyres - Why not buy actual slicks? Why does nobody actually do that anyway? -
This an R34? It shouldn't matter though - it should be the same as on any of the others, and by "any of the others" I mean R32, because that is the car that I have had the front end apart on about 50 times this year. Sometimes, it is much easier to get the lower shock eye onto that pin when: a) you have the upper shock nuts backed off a few turns so you can wiggle it a bit more freely. When they are tight the bottom of the strut is much harder to move that _leeeetle_ bit you might need it to to win the fight. b) you have the outer bolt(s) from the FUCA out and so you can move the lower pin around freely too. Then, all you have to do is put the upper arm back on when you've got the rest back together, and this is where jacking under the balljoint can help.
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