Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi - I have a car that I want to do something different to and one of my options is AWD Nissan RB motor. What I would like to know is what is the best (ie; cheapest and easiest) way of getting an AWD setup ? I have good cash flow but no good at saving so can't afford much more than about $2k at atime. I am initially not after power, but more worried about getting the AWD conversion done even if it is just with an NA motor and then upgrade later.

Is any of the RB motors any better over the others (ignoring the obvious benefits of displacement) - I noticed RB20's are getting over 200kw quite easily and that will probably be enough for me to start with.

Is it worth picking up AWD bits separately, eg transmission, sump/diff and front suspension or will that end up costing me too much in the long run ? Do you need a dedicated AWD ECU or wiring harness or can a RWD car be set up for AWD easily ?

What about the VL Commodore motors - are they just a Nissan RB motor or did Holden do any mods to them - that might be a cheaper way to start ?

Thanks

Nissan AWD systems in the RB-engined vehicles work by a lot of electronics and hydraulics. There are numerous threads asking similar question - converting RWD Nissans to AWD, so do a search.

If you are intent on using a Nissan engine, then you may need to look at the Patrol series.

Ok well it seems like you are new to rb motors etc

rb30 - VL commodore - Single Cam engine - Not too great unless you plan on doing some work to it or a twin cam conversion

rb26 - from the twin turbo gtr (not the newest one) - It is a twin turbo engine ready to rock and roll for 4wd - Revs very nicely BUT it bloody expensive

rb25 - from the 33 gtst usually. Its only a single turbo - Found in GTS-4 aswell - Makes ok power from stock but not as much as 26. Can't rev like a 26 or a 20 either

rb20 - mainly just r32 gtst and in some gts4 - Makes lowish power but revs very nicely - Also a single turbo

That is just a ridiculously basic run down of some of the motor. That is excluding which have VCT, which are fuel injected or carby if its a neo engine or normal if it has solid lifters of hydraulic etc etc

If you on a budget get the stuff from a GTS4 with the rb25. That is definately your cheapest bet. Maybe just buy a smashed to pieces skyline or something. You will need an ecu to control it all. Also like I said dont put in the rb30 unless you want to twin cam it first. Anyways I would write more but I need to go to work. Wiki the different engines and have a search on here. There is SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much info on this dam website. Its a gold mine honestly.

Cheers

Lukas

There is SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much info on this dam website. Its a gold mine honestly.

Cheers

Lukas

Thanks for the info - nice and simple explanantion.

I did have a search but there is toooooooo much info and could take me months to find what I was specifically looking for.

Thanks for the info - nice and simple explanantion.

I did have a search but there is toooooooo much info and could take me months to find what I was specifically looking for.

hahaha yes I know that feeling. What is the engine etc going to be used for? Swing through a little more info :cheers:

so you're talking about converting a standard road-going RWD car to AWD?

take the GTS-4 .. if you use the whole drivetrain then you are looking at using the standard front diff located in the sump, then those front drive shafts need to go somewhere, so your looking at replacing your front hub/rotor/wheel/suspension assembly.

the rear drivetrain can be taken care of by a custom drive shaft to the vehicle's std rear diff (see hardy spicer).

i had considered doing an AWD conversion to a RWD car but seriously the thought of trying to fabricate all the frond end suspension components... it will be costly and time consuming

so you're talking about converting a standard road-going RWD car to AWD?

take the GTS-4 .. if you use the whole drivetrain then you are looking at using the standard front diff located in the sump, then those front drive shafts need to go somewhere, so your looking at replacing your front hub/rotor/wheel/suspension assembly.

the rear drivetrain can be taken care of by a custom drive shaft to the vehicle's std rear diff (see hardy spicer).

i had considered doing an AWD conversion to a RWD car but seriously the thought of trying to fabricate all the frond end suspension components... it will be costly and time consuming

Spot on - excpet I plan on using the entire front and rear suspensions, crossmembers, hubs, brakes etc and mounting them to the RWD chassis. Just have to find an AWD setup that will make this possible in terms of ease and cost.

GTS-4 are RB25 and AWD ? That could be a goer.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...